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Bitty Buttress
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A's Jax 
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A's Jax 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Steve Komito 1964
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on Oct 5, 2002
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  • Description 

    P1. This adventure route starts on one of the ramps next to the Bitty Buttress route. We chose the v-shaped one. A full pitch (165') of scraggy climbing brings you to a big ledge. The hardest part was a short, steep, finger crack with some loosish blocks at its top. Try not to throw anything on your belayer. In fact, be careful the whole pitch, there were some lucy's indeed.

    P2. Next scramble left and up, belaying under and on the left of the two prominent roofs.

    P3. The third pitch is the nice one, a right facing dihedral that is steep and fun. This felt to me like 1964 5.8. Similar dificulty as Bitty Buttress and tops out just to the climber's left of that route. Would be better if first pitch wasnt so scraggy, but is fun.


    Protection 

    Single set of nuts and cams to #3 Camalot. Aliens work well.



    Comments on A's Jax Add Comment
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    By Dmitriy Zinchenko
    Oct 6, 2002

    This route has one of the sweetest top outs in BC; a big grassy ledge with some shade and great views. Be careful with the bush just below the dihedral starts, it can snag your rope. The last pitch can be aided at C1 and provides an excellent link-up with Holy Ascension (C2(+?) or 5.13). Most routes adjacent to A's Jax's third pitch can be accessed by scrambling from the left to the top of Peapod's belay ledge and following easy 4th class to the upper ledge system.

    By Rodger Raubach
    Dec 4, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    This climb starts on the first pitch of "South," a climb not yet listed here and one I've done 4 times. This start is in a very distinct, right-facing dihedral just 20 feet left of the "Bitty Buttress" route and is 5.7; it protects well.