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 ADVANCED
Dome Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Jello Crack T 
Arwen T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 
Close To The Edge T,S 
Good Samaritan, The T 
Just Barely T,S 
Last Dihedral, The T 
Left Crack T 
Old Man Quiver S 
Red Mushrooms T 
Sanitarium T,S,TR 
Tobin's Dihedral T 
Tree Route T 
Unknown, South of Tree Route T 
Vicious T 
Windjammer T 
Unsorted Routes:

Arwen 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Cultivating Mass on Sep 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Arwen is an old school 5.9 slab route with significantly less bolts than the Moser guide indicates.
P1 went on two pieces of gear, heads up to a bolted anchor (somewhat) visible from the ground (if you're looking pretty hard).
P2 starts thin and gets thinner, first (only) bolt at 20', then thinthin to easier moves and slightly left to the anchor. Random bolt clippable from anchor that has no apparent value visible here.
P3 steps left, clips bolt, then back right to a tight seam than offers gear at the top. Good gear under an overlap is followed by continuous, unprotected, thin black slab that gradually eases, again, bolted anchor is slightly left at the top, just underneath a larger overlap/small roof.
Last pitch steps left and follows shallow L facing corner to overlap (gear), then old buttonhead to 5.5 slabbin' to the walkoff. Good route, thought-provoking crux, but not much gear on the entire climb. Anchor at top of P3 is experiencing serious galvanic corrosion and is in need of replacement. All other bolts besides pro bolt on last pitch (not crucial, gear just below, no tough moves above) are solid. Runout but worthwhile if you're solid at the grade. AGAIN, *SEVERAL* of the bolts shown in the Moser guide are not on the route-heads up.

Location 

Start in the neighborhood of 30 feet right of Tree Route, aiming for a left-trending swoosh. Anchor visible above if you look hard enough.

Protection 

Single rack and old-school slab balls. Those not psyched on single bolt pitches need not apply.


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By Cultivating Mass
Sep 19, 2011

There is a bolted anchor to the right of the P1 anchor which seems to be for the Last Homely House route. This looked (according to the guidebook) to be a variant first pitch to Arwen, I didn't see any gear or bolts to be had though.
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Runout as noted but a worthy outing if comfortable at the grade. This is one route you definitely won't be waiting in line for.