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 ADVANCED
(5) Grand Auditorium
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arupa T 
Face The Wall T 
Freedom Crack T 
Topout T 
unknown unknowns T 
Upside Down S 
Verdon du Taiwan T,S 
Via del Drago T 
Yellow Jasmine Beauty T 

Arupa 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Aruba refers to a Taiwanese schoolyard pastime involving the use of trees/poles/building-corners/etc to inflict trauma upon the victim's genital region.

This is an ultra-wicked 35m route that feels and is quite adventurous. The route is isolated to a tall "clean" wall of the Grand Auditorium's north face, which takes some getting to. Bringing some trad gear (cams from small to 2" and nuts) is highly recommended - this whole route can be easily protected traditionally.

Start at the middle of three bolt lines, at a short bit of hands crack. Getting up to the first bolt takes some commitment, and/or could be protected with gear. Continue up this crack, with some excellent jamming and laybacking, up to a ledge. Step back left, clip a bolt (gear here?), and return to the somewhat dirty crack. Stay in this just long enough to reach the namesake arete. The exposure increases as you commit to the arete, and eventually pull through small holds into the horizontal below the overhang. The crescendo of the route is mounting the arete to pull through into the corner. From here, it's mostly easier but still wild climbing through what might be some loose blocks. Step right out to Boot Flake, and enjoy the view from your perch.

From this anchor, you can continue straight up through Verdon du Taiwan or up and right to Provence Roof. The former can be protected traditionally as well, but does not currently have reliable top-anchor bolts. A walk-off is recommended.

Descent is roughly 33 meters (110 feet). A single 60m should barely get you down. Knot those ends!

Location 

South-facing wall of Grand Auditorium. The center of three bolt lines. Approach by boulder hopping up through the pandanus plants, and head right once you approach the wall. If you continue along this trail, you will reach the start of Via del Drago and the Grand Auditorium descent trail.

Protection 

15 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
Gear to 2" (doubles)

The anchor bolts are very widely spaced and don't have rap rings. Maybe I will put up a webbing-sling-ring anchor one of these days, but a length of cord or webbing will serve you well for the time being.


Photos of Arupa Slideshow Add Photo
Overview
Overview
shot from atop Commissary Crack
BETA PHOTO: shot from atop Commissary Crack

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By BrianWS
Apr 10, 2013

Clarification: Aruba refers to a Taiwanese schoolyard pastime involving the use of trees/poles/building-corners/etc to inflict trauma upon the victim's genital region. Repeated, rapid kicking of the crotch is referred to as Dianli Anmo.

By Danger
From: Taipei City
Aug 28, 2014

a 60m does indeed get you down from the belay, just barely! better knot those ends...