|(5) Grand Auditorium
Aruba refers to a Taiwanese schoolyard pastime involving the use of trees/poles/building-corners/etc to inflict trauma upon the victim's genital region.
This is an ultra-wicked 35m route that feels and is quite adventurous. The route is isolated to a tall "clean" wall of the Grand Auditorium's north face, which takes some getting to. Bringing some trad gear (cams from small to 2" and nuts) is highly recommended - this whole route can be easily protected traditionally.
Start at the middle of three bolt lines, at a short bit of hands crack. Getting up to the first bolt takes some commitment, and/or could be protected with gear. Continue up this crack, with some excellent jamming and laybacking, up to a ledge. Step back left, clip a bolt (gear here?), and return to the somewhat dirty crack. Stay in this just long enough to reach the namesake arete. The exposure increases as you commit to the arete, and eventually pull through small holds into the horizontal below the overhang. The crescendo of the route is mounting the arete to pull through into the corner. From here, it's mostly easier but still wild climbing through what might be some loose blocks. Step right out to Boot Flake, and enjoy the view from your perch.
From this anchor, you can continue straight up through Verdon du Taiwan or up and right to Provence Roof. The former can be protected traditionally as well, but does not currently have reliable top-anchor bolts. A walk-off is recommended.
Descent is roughly 35 meters (115 feet). A single 60m will not get you down.
South-facing wall of Grand Auditorium. The center of three bolt lines. Approach by boulder hopping up through the pandanus plants, and head right once you approach the wall. If you continue along this trail, you will reach the start of Via del Drago and the Grand Auditorium descent trail.
15 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
Gear to 2" (doubles)
70m rope or 2x ropes for rappel
The anchor bolts are very widely spaced and don't have rap rings. Maybe I will put up a webbing-sling-ring anchor one of these days, but a length of cord or webbing will serve you well for the time being.
BETA PHOTO: shot from atop Commissary Crack
Apr 10, 2013
Clarification: Aruba refers to a Taiwanese schoolyard pastime involving the use of trees/poles/building-corners/etc to inflict trauma upon the victim's genital region. Repeated, rapid kicking of the crotch is referred to as Dianli Anmo.