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Art's route is not "classic", but it does have some fun climbing, and there will be no line! There are a couple of tough sections that'll keep you on your toes. The moves off of the ground are strenuous and committing.
Head up and right, following the crack, until it's time to swing back left over the overhang (2nd crux). Head up left to a belay tree.
This route is a bit of a hidden gem. You'll need the guide book, and some luck finding it, if this is your first or only trip to the Gunks. But of course you shouldn't be seeking this route if that's the case.
Anyway, it is located on the Thom's Thumb pinnacle at the far end of the Trapps. Head into the woods at the "S" turn in the carriage road. Within a few yards, look into the woods on the left for a giant boulder, then skirt the right side of that boulder as you head towards the cliff. This should deposit you almost directly in front of Art's Route. Look for the crack system, in a left facing dihedral, with orange rock.
Standard rack up to #3. You could rap from the tree, but the slings never stay in place since it's a quick easy scramble down the back and to the right and back around to your pack.
|By Fat Paul|
Nov 9, 2009
Short and fun, with good gear. Worth doing when visiting Sleepy Hollow.
Jun 9, 2010
also possible to toprope. Although, this is a strong lead. The upper roof if fun and quite powerful feeling. The third crux is cleaning out all of the cobwebs on it.
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012
What a great climb! As a second, I was able to watch my leader navigate crux two. Without that, I think I would have been scratching my head for a long time...hard to figure the 9 exit. Burly and hard for the nine rating.
1 day ago
Great roof problem. Not exactly the warmdown I was expecting! I didn't find it especiall dirty, and it's certainly worth doing when you're touring Sleepy Hollow.