Art's Route  5.9

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Art Gran Submitted By:  Mark Roth on May 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Art's route is not "classic", but it does have some fun climbing, and there will be no line! There are a couple of tough sections that'll keep you on your toes. The moves off of the ground are strenuous and committing.

Head up and right, following the crack, until it's time to swing back left over the overhang (2nd crux). Head up left to a belay tree.

Location 

This route is a bit of a hidden gem. You'll need the guide book, and some luck finding it, if this is your first or only trip to the Gunks. But of course you shouldn't be seeking this route if that's the case.

Anyway, it is located on the Thom's Thumb pinnacle at the far end of the Trapps. Head into the woods at the "S" turn in the carriage road. Within a few yards, look into the woods on the left for a giant boulder, then skirt the right side of that boulder as you head towards the cliff. This should deposit you almost directly in front of Art's Route. Look for the crack system, in a left facing dihedral, with orange rock.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #3. You could rap from the tree, but the slings never stay in place since it's a quick easy scramble down the back and to the right and back around to your pack.