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Routes in Anasazi Buttress
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Artist Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
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Foam Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Navajo Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Seam Crack A3-4 R |
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Shere Khan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Molly Higgins & Larry Bruce, May 1976, P1 & 2 Eric Bjornstand & Jimmy Dunn, early 1970s |
| Page Views: | 13,615 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Cole Chilton on Nov 20, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route is on the south side of the canyon right off the road and follows a very thin line that winds up the extremely steep and sheer face of Anasazi Wall. This route isn't very well documented but still seems to attract a lot of attention. Artist Tears has been hammered on considerably, and the already large pin scars on the route have been growing larger with each year. Regardless, the climb is still magnificent and will hopefully go clean soon.
P1. The first pitch is considered to be the crux. I managed to hook through the pin holes and nutted through most of the remainder of the pitch only love tapping two nuts to reach the belay.
P2. Unfortunately, the second pitch was much harder to maintain a clean accent, and I ended up doing more hamering than I wanted to. With the advent of Splitter Cams, this pitch, and possibly the whole climb, will go completely clean.
P3.
Kudos to the party that manages to do so!!! This is one of the sheerest walls out there!
P.S. The descent is a nightmare to find. We never did find the right way down, so I won't put anybody else through that misery and keep our line of descent private.
P1. The first pitch is considered to be the crux. I managed to hook through the pin holes and nutted through most of the remainder of the pitch only love tapping two nuts to reach the belay.
P2. Unfortunately, the second pitch was much harder to maintain a clean accent, and I ended up doing more hamering than I wanted to. With the advent of Splitter Cams, this pitch, and possibly the whole climb, will go completely clean.
P3.
Kudos to the party that manages to do so!!! This is one of the sheerest walls out there!
P.S. The descent is a nightmare to find. We never did find the right way down, so I won't put anybody else through that misery and keep our line of descent private.
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