|539 page views|
A tricky sequence a couple moves up will make you wish you placed a couple good pieces right off the ground, well-named route as the locks are a bit "strenuous".
obvious overhanging finger crack that splits a blank face near the middle of the wall, the base is usually obscured by brush, chain anchors
May 6, 2010
If by standard rack, you mean double TCUs from 00 to 1, and a 0.5 and 1 inch cam, then I think you have it. I wonder how many folks have lead this besides myself, apparently you, and Steve.
Is this an inside joke posting this route first. If so, I think it is major humerous, considering the style bolting at this crag. Not trying to start a bolt debate, just appreciating the apparent irony.
Aug 1, 2010
I'm glad that somebody enjoyed the irony of posting this route first since it is highly uncharacteristic of the area. My intent was to post routes that are rarely climbed and let others fill in the popular routes i.e. epiphany, learning to fly, etc.. That being said, Arthritis is a great route and I has a neat face-splitting position.
I have enjoyed most of the climbs at the crag including the finger-eating mud crack but thought that others could do a much better job describing them (and including pictures). I will continue to post the unpopular routes but am waiting to get some pictures first (I always forget the camera when I go climbing).
Standard Rack - I thought this climb was well-protected though a little awkward to place with my rack which includes green through red alien and stoppers for small gear. I do not own any TCUs or other microcams.
Bolting - Though some would say this area is over-bolted, I would prefer to avoid any political debates on this site and only discuss the quality of routes. I've thoroughly enjoyed climbing at Spring over the years and hope that allowing others input on the area will make it better.
|By Bill Ballace|
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
We trundled the loose death block off the route this weekend.