Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3200 ft (970 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,691 total · 53/month
Shared By: Cissa Carvalho on Jan 8, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Tony Yeary, MAKB

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Description Suggest change

Artesonraju´s North Ridge (alpine D) is one of the most classic routes on the range, and makes for a worth while climb if you´re in the Santa Cruz valley for Alpamayo or Quitaraju.

From moraine camp, a 20 minute walk leads you to the entrance of the glacier. Glacier itself varies a lot from year to year, but expect to encounter traga-hombres and moderate steep ice from the beginning. Glacier is usually entered from the right, a long traverse leads you to a short and steep, 80 degree step. From there traverse diagonally to the right at about 60 degrees, cross some crevasses, another traverse to the left and finally, gain the 240 m wall at about 70 degrees snow and ice. 4 pitches and you reach the summit ridge, and about 30 minutes on exposed ridge lead you tot he summit. Descend the same route.

Protection Suggest change

Conditions vary from year to year, and the technical portion may require sometimes pickets, sometimes ice screw. Ask around conditions and , and two 60 meter ropes.

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