Pitch 1 (160', 5.7): surmount the roof and head up a liebacky thing to a bolted anchor. Pro is a little sparse and there are some hollow-sounding flakes -- be careful.
Pitch 2 (100', 5.9): sustained right-leaning finger crack with great pro, to bolted anchor with rap rings. I have read that this pitch can be wet sometimes, but we did it during a prolonged dry spell.
Turn right at the bottom of the descent trail and traverse below the Hippo Wall (bolted slab routes). At the end of this slab will be a left-hand descent to routes such as the Tollhouse Traverse.
Instead, go straight and continue traversing along a climber's trail below the face, passing the Turret and Friday the 13th. The climber's trail should peter out at a tree, just below a roof. The route starts below the left side of the roof.
1. Rappel with either two 60m ropes or conceivably one 70m. The first rappel should get you to a bolted anchor with rings, which is a belay on Leapin' Lichen (5.10a R/X). Second rappel was ~120', so it might be a bit short with a 70m but probably doable.
2. Continue up some third-fourth class slab to Cap Rock, and either (a) climb Cuticle Corner (5.7), a short finger crack, to another bolted anchor, or (b) traverse right around the base of Cap Rock to where you can pick up a trail. Walk off after either option.
Set of nuts, cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inch, maybe some extras in finger sizes.
BETA PHOTO: 17-December-2011: below the roof on first pitch, l...
15-Jan-2012: Karén on second pitch
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 18, 2013
I hardly believed, looking up at the base, that the first pitch was what I saw. The rock is really scary and the cracks are really dirty. It's whatever though. I guess just don't do it if you're not into that kind of thing. The climbing is kind of fun. When you get to the first ledge (Budweiser) , keep going to get to the anchor.
The second pitch is, as advertised, great. I'd recommend rapping in if you want to do it. Rap (or walk down scary 3rd slab) right below the cuticle corner (which is to the right of the obvious platinum plus) to the anchors on top of the finger crack, and then rap down to tr or lead. 4 stars for it even though it's pretty short. It's also moss filled at the bottom so I face climbed up a bit and then stepped in where it was cleaner
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Mar 17, 2013
I cleaned it up a little march 15, 2013.