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East Fork Valley
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Arsenault-Bouchard 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 16 pitches, 1800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: August 1994 - Steve Arsenault and John Bouchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,177
Submitted By: Mark Arsenault on Jan 31, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Originally, we were intending to free the earlier route,(Arsenault-Young)done in the early 70's. We thought this line looked better, which paralled the older line, going all free. The route followed up and right, below an arching flake system for two pitches to a large ledge. Continue up and right,(5.9 face), to ledges. Up for 3-4 pitches to huge, protected ledge, behind flakes, (cairn). Up face,(5.9or10), heading for a 200 foot long dihedral which can be seen from ground. At top, trend right onto North Face and follow face and cracks for another 5-6 pitches to top. See photo.


Protection 

We brought a few pitons which were useful and placed a few bolts for belays.



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By James Garrett
Feb 19, 2010

Mark,
Thanks so much for making this entry. Don't think this classic line is in the existing Kelsey Guidebook. Would you be able to give a better pitch by pitch description?...How consistent for the grade? Definitely on my wish list...could it even be maybe a Grade V? Big day by all accounts!
cheers,
jg

By Jes Meiris
Jan 13, 2013

What peak is this route on?

By Jason Denver
Jan 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R

Pretty sure it's considered Ambush peak. Maybe the south summit

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 15, 2013

Yes, Ambush Peak - the big buttress in the South end of the Valley, a bit right of the golden dihedral on the largest part of the buttress.

By stephen arsenault
Sep 13, 2013

In the new Kelsey guidebook,(2013), this route is called "Hole in the Wall". As I have done this route 3 times, I might add that there are many options, as to which way to go, after you climb the huge 200 foot inside corner, ( about 2/3rds up the face). I have always gone around to the right onto the North Face, which adds about 5 more pitches of steep climbing, ending close to the true summit of Ambush Peak.