When combined with Arrowhead Arete, this makes for a pretty fun outing with lots of exposure. Instead of climbing the first pitch of Arrowhead Arete, head a bit further east to the base of the spire and locate an easy looking corner system. From here, climb up about 30' to a fixed pin, and continue up crack system, passing a scrub oak. Continue up a chimney, making a few tricky moves past another fixed pin. Belay at a good stance.
Pitch 2 involves some airy face climbing on featured rock. There are a couple of fixed pins on this pitch as well, and you can get gear in here and there.
The summit provides a great view of the Valley, Half Dome, Glacier Point, The Sentinel, Ahwahnee Meadow, and Mount Starr King.
From the top, 1 rap (watch your rope ends) puts you at the notch between the Spire and the Arete. One more rap sets you up for climbing Arrowhead Arete.
Same as for Arrowhead Arete.
Light rack. There are a few fixed pins on the route as well.
View of the Spire from Arrowhead Arete.
Jeff just past the awkward pitch 1 crux.
By Doug Hemken
Jun 9, 2009
I had mixed feeling about doing this route a couple of years ago. Didn't like the climbing all that much, but loved the position and the rappel over to Arrowhead Arete. Do it for the adventure.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Did it in one long pitch with a 70m and a little simuling on really easy terrain.