Arrowhead Cliff Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
42.6188, -70.6668 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 3,228 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008 |
Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Access Issue: Closed
Details
Per jim.dangle: public access has been lost to this area.
The pull-off on Concord St. mentioned in the area description above is now clearly posted with a "No Trespassing" sign and should be avoided. Though the cliff itself is part of the the Great Ledges property of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, it is completely encircled by private land and the access granted to the ECGA does not extend to the public.
The pull-off on Concord St. mentioned in the area description above is now clearly posted with a "No Trespassing" sign and should be avoided. Though the cliff itself is part of the the Great Ledges property of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, it is completely encircled by private land and the access granted to the ECGA does not extend to the public.
Description
Though I would stop short of saying this cliff has access issues, it should be noted that this area has parking for one car maximum. You will be parking in a slight recess in the underbrush at the beginning of a neighborhood, and discretion and good conduct are advised.
The cliff itself is found after a sub-one-mile but very bushwacky approach. There is really only one route to speak of, One Little Indian, a 5.10+ pure crack up a dead-vertical face that is not to be missed.
The cliff itself is found after a sub-one-mile but very bushwacky approach. There is really only one route to speak of, One Little Indian, a 5.10+ pure crack up a dead-vertical face that is not to be missed.
Getting There
Go to Exit 14 off Route 128 (Route 133). If coming northbound, take a left off exit ramp to head NW on Route 133 (Essex Ave). In less than a mile, take a right on Sumner St. which will T into Concord St. Go left on Concord, go over a small bridge and into the beginnings of a neighborhood. At this point, keep your eyes out for a small, single car pulloff into the sticks on the left side of the road. You will NOT be able to see the cliff from where you park. Park as discretely as you can and head across a yellow-grassed meadow.
After the meadow into the woods, you will cross a tiny stream, usually quite dry. Soon you will see the beginnings of a cliffband to your left. Head left along the base of the cliff on a very faint trail mainly maintained by deer. The cliff won't look like much at first. But then you will round a corner in a mossy recess in the cliff. To your right is a sheer vertical face with an obvious crack in it. This is One Little Indian. Climb it!
After the meadow into the woods, you will cross a tiny stream, usually quite dry. Soon you will see the beginnings of a cliffband to your left. Head left along the base of the cliff on a very faint trail mainly maintained by deer. The cliff won't look like much at first. But then you will round a corner in a mossy recess in the cliff. To your right is a sheer vertical face with an obvious crack in it. This is One Little Indian. Climb it!
Classic Climbing Routes at Arrowhead Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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