Though I would stop short of saying this cliff has access issues, it should be noted that this area has parking for one car maximum. You will be parking in a slight recess in the underbrush at the beginning of a neighborhood, and discretion and good conduct are advised.
The cliff itself is found after a sub-one-mile but very bushwacky approach. There is really only one route to speak of, One Little Indian
, a 5.10+ pure crack up a dead-vertical face that is not to be missed.
Go to Exit 14 off Route 128 (Route 133). If coming northbound, take a left off exit ramp to head NW on Route 133 (Essex Ave). In less than a mile, take a right on Sumner St. which will T into Concord St. Go left on Concord, go over a small bridge and into the beginnings of a neighborhood. At this point, keep your eyes out for a small, single car pulloff into the sticks on the left side of the road. You will NOT be able to see the cliff from where you park. Park as discretely as you can and head across a yellow-grassed meadow.
After the meadow into the woods, you will cross a tiny stream, usually quite dry. Soon you will see the beginnings of a cliffband to your left. Head left along the base of the cliff on a very faint trail mainly maintained by deer. The cliff won't look like much at first. But then you will round a corner in a mossy recess in the cliff. To your right is a sheer vertical face with an obvious crack in it. This is One Little Indian
. Climb it!
Climbing Season For the Cape Ann area.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
1 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Arrowhead Cliff
One Little Indian 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b MA
: Cape Ann
: Arrowhead Cliff
This crack begins with awkward layback moves under a significant bulge. Reach around the bulge for a solid wide handjam and place a piece. Pull into the crack proper and continue on mainly hands for the first 10-15'. The crack narrows for the remainder of the route, fingers and thin hands, occasional face features for feet. The climbing gets very scrappy and demanding toward the top, jams are thin and flaring, occasional crimps on granite crystals may be better than jams, but feet may be crumbly...[more] Browse More Classics in MA
Mar 25, 2014
Please Note: Public access has been lost to this area.
The pull-off on Concord St. mentioned in the area description above is now clearly posted with a "No Trespassing" sign and should be avoided. Though the cliff itself is part of the the Great Ledges property of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, it is completely encircled by private land and the access granted to the ECGA does not extend to the public.
A real shame.
From: Near Joshua Tree
Apr 30, 2014
Thanks for the update, Jim. Not just for me, but for everyone closer by. I live out near Joshua Tree now, so I haven't been there in a few years. Bumma.