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Burlap Buttress
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Arch Rival 
Arrow Place 
Children of the Sun 10b 
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Prism Corner, The 
Teabob 
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Arrow Place 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1979 George Urioste, Mike Ward, Dick Tonkin
Page Views: 2,562
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005
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BFK on Arrow Place P1

Description 

As you reach the base of the buttress, bear slightly right. this route faces northeast and follows a prominent, steep, left-facing dihedral for the first pitch. The start is immediately above a yucca. P1 goes up the thin crack for 80 or 90 feet to a bolted station. For P2, step back into the crack and follow it straight up for another 80 or 90 feet, to another bolted station. You can rappel from this point with a single 60-meter rope. There are additional pitches possible, but the rock quality declines.


Protection 

At the start of this route, you can make good use of Lowe Balls or very tiny cams. The jam crack on the second pitch can use 3 or 4 #2 Camalots.



Photos of Arrow Place Slideshow Add Photo
Arrow Place start
BETA PHOTO: Arrow Place start
Arrow Place
BETA PHOTO: Arrow Place
Red Rock pioneer Geoff Conley (of Resolution Arete fame) leads up to the first belay on Arrow Place.
Red Rock pioneer Geoff Conley (of Resolution Arete...
Looking down the second pitch.  The orientation of the dihedral ensures a shady, cool experience in the winter months
Looking down the second pitch. The orientation of...
The initial corner on Arrow Place.
The initial corner on Arrow Place.
Joe Lee pulling the crux start move.
Joe Lee pulling the crux start move.
Comments on Arrow Place Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 13, 2014
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a really good route that follows a beautiful corner/crack system straight up for about a rope length. Although the start looks quite difficult, a really tiny cam and/or a ballnut give psychological pro for the initial moves that, while not easy, are not as tough as they look. From there, the climb head straight up through some of the best climbing I've done on a short climb in Red Rocks. Chalk up another classic in Black Velvet canyon....

By phil broscovak
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A really pleasant route. The start looks intimidating but goes really well. I found two bomber small wired nuts that had me feeling fairly secure through the opening moves. After the first body length you get a good stance and can readily place solid pro. The rest of the climb is well protected and very enjoyable.

By mjpj
Mar 16, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Gear Alert

Climbed the route on 3.16.05. Frist 2 pitches were great and the 3rd was a bit sandy/loose. The rap station at the third pitch consisted of 3 slings around a single small scrub oak. About 30 feet below was another rap station with a bunch of really old, weathered slings. We left a new spectra sling and a biner, but some one should bring ~10-15 feet of new webbing and replace all the old stuff.If I did the climb again, I would either skip the 3rd pitch or traverse left to the lower rap station. It might also be possible to down climb a gully to the lower rap station.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 15, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Definitely bring some ballnuts for the start. The initial moves aren't that difficult but they require some problem solving so bring your thinking cap. For pitch two, doubles of Camalots #1 - #3 proved adequate. We took pitch three to the lower belay station after traversing left 30 feet. It wasn't worth it and the rock above was really bad. But the first two pitches are stellar.

By rpc
Mar 21, 2008

Start (crux) seemed easy for me but my wife disagreed - I'm 6'7" & she's 5'3" (maybe that's the reason :)....I could definitely reach up to some jugs.
Did 1st 2 pitches at the end of a day then rapped. Nice climbing on those.

By Brian in SLC
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Found a couple nice stopper placements, and a bomber 00 TCU placement that I could reach from a nice stance at the start of the route (but, I'm 6'1"). DMM peanut and BD micro nut. Also, above the 00 TCU another bomber small stopper can be placed.

Great route. I found the moves past the first corner over the break kinda hard for 5.9. Even at A0, this is a great route. The only detraction from the route quality is doing a third or more pitch. If you just do the first 2 pitches, you can get off with a single 60 (or 50?) meter rope. The third pitch is nice initially but the rock quality gets sketchy the higher you get, and, the traverse to that scrub oak is sandy. The slings on that scrappy scrub oak are ok, but, the rope pull is poor. Still well worth the relatively short (by RR standards) hike to do the first two pitches!

We got by easily with a double set of cams (no 3 #2 camalots). Crack gobbles up a variety of gear. Didn't place a #4 camalot either.

3 or 4 star first two pitches. No stars for the third pitch.

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Dec 4, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A #5 HB offset seemed totally bomber getting off the deck. I had some Lowe balls along but the HB really 'felt' better. Didn't go ahead and fall on it, however, so what do I really know?
Very fun, quality route. We made it to the ground with one full 60m rap from the tree, out to the left on the third pitch. And we threw off a bunch of rocks lying around the rap station. No one was there but us, so it was a good chance to clean up.

By Arch Richardson
Apr 5, 2011

A 00 Metolius TCU adequately protected the initial moves. Overall a very fun and well protected climb.

By Patrick Mulligan
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I'll echo the 00 and lowe ball. At 6' I was able to get the smallest lowe ball and a 00 before heading into the moves. Both seemed bomber. Great route!

By Ben Townsend
Nov 3, 2013

Purple C3 is bomber for the start. The tree anchor at the top of pitch 3 (actually two trees and a fixed Lost Arrow) is OK but could use newer cord; we cut away some crusty old webbing that wasn't doing much, but it would probably take a whole 25' cordelette, which we didn't have, to do it right.

By tom donnelly
Jan 13, 2014

Handren guidebook pic shows P3 going to the upper oak bush, which is junk rock. The first 50 feet of P3 to the first big oak tree is worth doing.