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Right after my fall, with...
First off, I haven't sent this thing, but I think my experience qualifies me to post it. In 2005 I was a move from the top when I peeled, hit the pad on its hinge, and broke my left ankle. Making things worse, I spent the next 2.5 hours driving home, gritting my teeth every time I engaged the clutch. Making things worse yet, this all went down the day before my wife and I were supposed to leave for a week on Mexican beaches, sans kids. We still went, but it was an icy trip at first.
Crimp up on sharp positive flakes and make a big stab up and right to a good gaston edge. Move to some sloper edges below the topout, hike your right foot up to the gaston edge and...topout I guess. This is where my left foot popped and I fell.
What I've described is listed as a variation in Central Washington Bouldering. Apparently if you use the left-hand arete instead of moving to the gaston, it's V3.
Lower Forestland on the obvious big boulder (next boulder up from Backdoor Ass Attack and The Real Thing), on the same face as The Shield, but to the left.
At least two pads; take my suggestion and pay attention to padding the landing rocks. Do it up right and the landing's fine.
Follows chalked holds up ...
Mexico, after the fall.
|Comments on Arrested Development
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 16, 2009
Definitely a 5 using the approach provided in the description. Heading up left offers a rather fun highball-y 3.