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VHS or Beta S 

Arnold! Arnold! 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Darryl Roth
Page Views: 1,273
Submitted By: Matt Robertson on Oct 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Finishing up the steep, juggy crux of Arnold! Arno...

Description 

Based on appearance, this might be a junior version of Ejection Seat. Forty feet right (north) of the Gym Arete and twenty feet right of Easy Cheese, look for two lines ascending a steep black bulge.

Arnold! Arnold! takes the left of these two lines, and the name fits until the crimps are reached. Steep jug pulling is friendly for the first two bolts, but just as the angle begins to ease the full-hand buckets disappear in favor of crimps and sharp bidoigt pockets. The ever-decreasing angle of the bulge motivates one to hustle, and if you outrace the pump you will find your feet beneath you for a few easy slab moves to the chains.

For those of us who climb like Austrian bodybuilders, this is a nice jughaul detour from the punishment of all those vertical Shelf faces.

Protection 

Five bolts protect the steep pulling very well.


Photos of Arnold! Arnold! Slideshow Add Photo
Ahh, the end feels so nice.
Ahh, the end feels so nice.
Arnold! Arnold! Brandon looking for a redpoint.
Arnold! Arnold! Brandon looking for a redpoint.
Moving on to better holds.
Moving on to better holds.
Searching for the good pockets.
Searching for the good pockets.
J putting in work sussing out the holds.
J putting in work sussing out the holds.

Comments on Arnold! Arnold! Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 16, 2005

This is really an outstanding route for the grade. I can't think of many 11+ routes at shelf that have better rock, better pockets, or more interesting moves. The only drawback would be the sharpness of the coral, but that's pretty much par for the course. I thought the long span right at the start was pretty powerful, but the pocket pulling about is spectacular.
By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Feb 3, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Yes, this is indeed a sweet, sweet route. I wish it were longer and steeper, then I could give it an other star. Amazingly this route is not that traveled. There is not a lot of chalk on it marking the holds and there is sand in the pockets. It actually makes for some interesting route finding. Go right and you might find it feeling hard for the grade.
By Joey Jimenez
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 19, 2009

Climbed this line yesterday and will have to go back next weekend for the redpoint. What an exceptional line with a little bit of everything - big powerful moves on overhanging jugs and crimps to start the climb, straight into a series of finger pockets at about the third & fourth bolt make up the crux, and then a big high step or reach to some sharp coral pinches get you over the bulge to the juggy slab finish. Do take your time and regain your composure on the slab as a fall there would suck. When you're gunning for the fourth bolt, there's a small two finger pocket with a great thumb catch that sits right and even with the bolt which makes that clip significantly easier if you can find it. You can't see it until you're eye level but it's an inch higher than the other obvious pocket beneath which is SHARP!

There was barely any chalk on this climb before we got on it, but we did chalk the holds we used to work the line. Definitely needs to see more traffic as it's an awesome climb at the grade. the 3rd bolt was a tad loose, so we'll try and wrench it the next time we're out. Enjoy.
By Zane Dordai
Dec 3, 2012

Awesome headwall and rock quality all the way through; thought there were a couple cruxy moves. The top, though sharp in places, has a few hidden, incut holds that are actually very friendly and sequential. With perfect beta through the headwall/slab transition, you shouldn't need to aggressively grab anything significantly sharper than Shelf standards.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 20, 2013

My inner knee can attest to the insanely sharp rock...but the smile on my face after finishes could care less. With that said, amazing route. Highly enjoyable big move (depending on your height) to kick it off followed by hidden incuts and pockets. They're there...just make sure you grab the right one...there's plenty of phonies. A definitely do if an 11+ climber in the gym!