Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,054 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on May 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1: 5.8. Ascend the left side of a buttress in a left-facing dihedral.

Per Doug Haller: we did not find a prominent buttress or obvious left-facing dihedral. Rather, from the chimney, climb up and right following cracks to ramp. Take the ramp up and right. Before the ramp turns the arete, place gear in a vertical crack; consider doubling up the pieces here. Climb a steep face and slab making use of few positive handholds, scoops, and slopers, for about 20-30 feet with little or no gear. Nearing the hemispherical cave, place solid gear. Move up to the cave, and follow several cracks around blocks to the base of an overhang. Place gear and move left around the roof to find an old pin with a 1/4 inch bolt above. Pass the bolt, and enter a left-facing grove, possibly the left-facing dihedral described in P2 by the previous contributor. Continue up parallel to the water streak taking the path of least resistance to reach a series of ledges with several options for belays, 5.8-5.9; 62 meters.

P2. 5.9-. Go up the slab to another left-facing dihedral, past some cracks and up to a ledge.

Per Doug Haller: from the saddle, step left to gain a crack adjacent to the water streak. Climb cracks passing a jagged flake up for about 60 feet. Pass an old pin. Where the cracks end, make a committing move right on slabs to a right-facing corner and ramp. The ramp becomes a slab split by a crack with several small bushes. The climbing is easy and protectable until it suddenly becomes a blank slap with a horizontal crack. Make thin moves to gain a ledge. Belay here after about 60 meters of climbing, 5.8-5.9; 60 meters.

P3: 5.8+. Continue up the crack until it fades, then manage the 5.7 R slab to reach the summit area.

Per Doug Haller: at this point, there appear to be several options. The original contributor describes one. Another option we explored required traversing right from the belay along a horizontal crack to gain a wide, bush-filled chimney/gully. Follow the gully, easy 5th Class, placing gear as much for rope management as safety for about 40 meters. Step left at the top of the gully, and follow easy slab and crack to the top, 50m; low 5th Class.

Location Suggest change

This is the furthest right route on the main wall.

Per Doug Haller: locating this route is part of the crux. Walk east, climber's right, from Lost in Space for about 300 feet. Above the ground about 80-100 feet, locate a hemispherical cave with a water streak below and above. At the base of the cliff, locate a narrow chimney which one can scramble to the top of and set up a belay on top of a rock which rests against the main wall. If you walk into or up the gully, you walked too far.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4".

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