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 ADVANCED
Mineshaft Wall
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Armor Plated S 
Death and Disfiguration S 
Drawbridge S 
It Is What It Is S 
Monstrosity S 
Power Point S 
Rapid Fire S 
Strictly Business S 

Armor Plated 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,467
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: In the middle of the 10-something section. Dyno is...

Description 

This climb starts out with thin 5.10 face climbing up to a left ward traverse to an obvious under-clinging hold. The guidebook says to go big with a lunge to a jug, but there are 2 other ways to climb the route. If you are tall, you can get a shoulder wrenching high gaston out right and do the move static. It is also possible to bypass the move on the right with 5.11a face climbing. Unique moves....

Location 

This is the 3rd route to the right of the mine.

Protection 

8 bolts.


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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 30, 2007

Very fun but not consistent, middle part is much easier and provides good rests. First few moves are great, watch the foot work if you hit the gaston at the overhang.
By Krister Sorensen
From: Centennial, CO
Mar 31, 2007

I think Spencer hit it right on the nose. The lunge is also possible to do static with out the gaston. Really cool move and you are missing out if you avoid it.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Opening moves are probably 11a-ish then the middle sequence probably goes at 10. I couldn't stick the dyno, so I moved off a crimp to a gaston out right. This way probably takes it down a letter grade or two (but I suck at dynos). Like all routes here, the bottom was tricky for me to read.
By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
Feb 7, 2009

Conserving energy for the last 2 moves is essential. Very fun route.
By adam wibby
Aug 17, 2009

If you don't want to dyno don't climb it. If you have a pair, have fun!
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 24, 2009

I'm 5.9 and I didn't dyno, really stretched out. I never left my right foot hold. Instead of the right side pull at the crux, look for a knob to undercling and float to the jug. If you know how to levitate, that would help some.
By Elijah Flenner
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The dyno move seemed pretty contrived to me. You have to move away from the obvious crack that you have been following and almost move onto Monstrosity. Also, don't blow the mantel onto the ledge after the "dyno" crux; it would be nasty. Bottom is fun, but I enjoy the route more by finishing on the anchors to the right and avoiding the crux all together. Your experience my be different.
By Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 6, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

DO THE DYNO. That is all. You are only cheating yourself....