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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Armed Forces S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Celestial Pile T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Devil May Care T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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God's Kingdom on Earth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heaven and Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hellbound S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pious Polecats S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| FA: | D. Hare & M. O'Donnell, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 2,067 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some endurance to get without a hang.
Location
Scramble up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).
Protection
4 bolts, some are far between, so heads-up! 2 bolt anchor.
The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand off the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.
The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand off the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.
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