|Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
Endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some enurance to get without a hang.
Scrmable up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).
6 clips, some are far between, so heads-up!
The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt, and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand of the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I like the opening move, overhung, but great holds. And up top there's a totally unique block with a hole through it. Traverse back L at the top before the anchor for the easiest holds. I didn't feel an 11 move on the route, although it's some good pulling on not always jugs. Good climbing, mostly great holds, sparsely bolted.