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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: tom bowker 1990, direct finish glen cilley 1994
Page Views: 8,816
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (161)
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Description 

A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.

To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route. At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness. Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast. After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.
Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition.

The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10.


Location 

Middle of the cliff, up slabs and a steep roofish section at the top. Right of Cereal Killer (5.11c).


Protection 

10 bolts to anchor.



Photos of Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication Slideshow Add Photo
Nicole kurth doing the roof the way i do it...
Nicole kurth doing the roof the way i do it...
Jakob cruising past the crux
BETA PHOTO: Jakob cruising past the crux
Cliff on Armed and Dangerous
Cliff on Armed and Dangerous
Cliff on the steep upper section
Cliff on the steep upper section
Burly moves
Burly moves
Lindsay Duca stylin' through the crux of Armed and Dangerous. <br /> <br />Photo by Ted Clark
Lindsay Duca stylin' through the crux of Armed and...
Lindsay Duca climbing the upper headwall on Armed and Dangerous. <br /> <br />Photo by Ted Clark
Lindsay Duca climbing the upper headwall on Armed ...
Nicole just finishing up...
Nicole just finishing up...
Comments on Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication Add Comment
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 24, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Hands down, one of the best 10s at Rumney. As a side note, the new route to the right of Armed and Dangerous, though not official yet, has been named "Clusterphobia" and is 11a.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 24, 2007

Clusterphobia is very fun for sure.... I had heard 5.10d, but I wouldn't argue with either grade....

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 3, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

If you are with someone that will be toproping the climb several times you should climb up and right to anchors of clusterphobia, it is a straighter line so the pendulum won't be so bad if they fall. Also remember to put in some directionals on the overhanging section, so they can get back on.

By Victor McConnell
Sep 19, 2007

For a little adventure, continue climbing past the top of Armed and Dangerous. A variety of paths can be taken, 5.7-5.8, for another pitch. Walk-off to the left.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 20, 2009

got on this for the first time today it was excellent definatly one of my favorites

By Tim Wolsonovich
From: Boston
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great fun. Love the jug haul section after the slabby part is over. Wish that horizontal was small enough for a fist jam, but maybe I just couldn't find it...

By S. Neoh
Apr 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Does anyone still do the original finish to this route?
At the top of the slab, go left. Reach the huge flake, continue left. Plug a #2 or #3 Camalot in at some point and finish up left still to a grassy ledge with a large tree on it. There used to be slings and rap rings on this tree.
For added spice down low, skip the bolt just below the crux pod. That bolt is relatively new. We used to plug a cam into the flaring pod (yes, where you want your hand to be!) instead and go for it after taking a deep breath. I think a 0.5 or 0.4 Camalot is the cam for the pod. Be careful and double check this placement if you choose to go slightly spicy.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 14, 2013

There are bolted anchors over on that ledge now to replace the slings on the tree. If you head over there you can then continue up on Crime and Punishment for a second pitch

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA
Aug 1, 2013

This route is one of the better 5.10's that I've climbed so far at Rumney. It's a great line, and, from the ground, the roof at the top looks pretty outrageous to the 5.10 climber. There's no question that, technically, surmounting the bulge about one third of the way up is the crux. The website (above) describes the middle part of the route as "technical, slabby face climbing," but it's not. The "slab" section is a piece of cake. However, surmounting the big roof above the slab is difficult if you are not accustomed to (a) Rumney-style overhanging jug hauling, or (b) pumping plastic at your local gym. For weak climbers (like me) it's a wicked pumpathon! If you really liked this route, try Sweet Polly Purebread. You'll like that one too.