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Armatron via Geronimo beta
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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 24, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Trying to figure out what we want to do next week and armatron is on the list. I thought I read somewhere you can approach it via geronimo. Can anyone enlighten me on how this is done?

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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Oct 24, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV
I have heard numerous climber folks say that the route "MysterZ" is a better approach route for getting to the base of Brownstone Wall routes.

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By Clayton Knudson
From El Portal, CA
Oct 24, 2012
I have done both the walk in and MysterZ approaches. It depends on your comfort level which will be faster for you. MysterZ is pretty easy to simul-climb the last pitches if you and your partner are into it. The walk in wasn't that bad if you're a strong hiker and don't get lost (+ or - 2 hours). The top of MysterZ pretty much puts you on a shelf that you head straight to the back of the canyon on, lines you up with the brownstone wall without having to hike up too much if i remember right. good luck, Brownstone is the most bitchin' spot in Red Rock.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 24, 2012
Geronimo doesnt really make for a good approach to Armatron. I've had friends do it up to the summit, and I hear its somewhat sketchy 5.9 climbing with pretty intense route-finding required.

Myster Z is the preferred approach, as it tops out within a 5 minute walk of Armatron. Its definitely cruiser after the first pitch or two, but very enjoyable.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 24, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
MysterZ is cruiser Nick. The first pitch is the hardest, in my opinion, and they become progressively easier. I would say that if you're a confident 5.6-5.7 leader you could do it in approach shoes. The middle pitches are fun, though not too difficult and as someone has said previously, simul climbing the last 2 pitches is fairly straightforward.

I have never done the Geronimo to Armatron link up. But I have heard that it's a bit more complex and you'd want to stay roped up a while longer. I believe where Geronimo "tops" out is actually above the start of Armatron... so when you top out you'd actually have to hike down a bit to get to the start. Sort of silly if you ask me. I'd say MysterZ is the best bet to add some length to your day and avoid the laborious hike up those slabs.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 24, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
And by the way, I'll be in Vegas while you're there for work and for some personal climbing time too. If you need a partner some days I'm available are Nov. 6th and 7th if you're interested in doing something long.

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By Brian in SLC
Oct 24, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Andy Hansen wrote:
I believe where Geronimo "tops" out is actually above the start of Armatron...


No no no. North side of Jackrabbit. No where near Juniper Peak, other than well below it.

MysterZ would be the no brainer approach.

Geronimo sounds fussy to get to the top of the formation. Most folks rap off it, which, would put you well away from gaining Armatron.

Rose Hips might work, too? Only route mentioned I haven't done...hmm...

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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Oct 24, 2012
Aesthetics
Would it be conceivable to simul this whole route to get to Brownstone (for a strong 5.11 climber)? I will also be there the 3rd-9th and would like to link this w/ Nightcrawler.

I had a buddy that was supposed to meet me (we did Cloud Tower together, this spring) and do the Orig Route. He's no longer coming so if anyone is interested.....

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 24, 2012
South of Windy Peak
Here's my beta photo of the additional Geronimo summit pitches. The final summit pitch was a little run out but not bad and had a short challenging chimney at 5.8 or 5.9. I think we used up to Camalot #4. We thought the summit pitches were fun. Harder than lower Geronimo, easier than Armatron. This would be an adventurous way to go; as noted MysterZ would be a more cruiser way to link up to the base of Armatron. Rose Hips does work too. Of course the fastest way would be to just walk up to the base of Brownstone Wall.
After topping out on the four-pitch Geronimo, we just couldn't stop climbing. The pitch pictured here went at 5.6 or 5.7 and featured stellar quality rock. The final pitch included fun but runout slab followed by a chossy 5.8+ chimney. This led to the summit of Jackrabbit Buttress and a walkoff by way of Brownstone Wall.
After topping out on the four-pitch Geronimo, we just couldn't stop climbing. The pitch pictured here went at 5.6 or 5.7 and featured stellar quality rock. The final pitch included fun but runout slab followed by a chossy 5.8+ chimney. This led to the summit of Jackrabbit Buttress and a walkoff by way of Brownstone Wall.

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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Oct 24, 2012
Aesthetics
John Hegyes wrote:
Of course the fastest way would be to just walk up to the base of Brownstone Wall.


Oh. Well, OK then. That solves that. Thanks.

EDIT: Well I finally read the comments under MysterZ.. Nowww I see what your saying. Thanks Darren.

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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 24, 2012
Skiing around.
MIYG wrote:
Would it be conceivable to simul this whole route to get to Brownstone (for a strong 5.11 climber)? I will also be there the 3rd-9th and would like to link this w/ Nightcrawler. I had a buddy that was supposed to meet me (we did Cloud Tower together, this spring) and do the Orig Route. He's no longer coming so if anyone is interested.....

I'm referring to MysterZ here:
Yes, it is possible for strong 5.11 climbers to simul. I would recommend putting only 30m of rope between you and your partner if you do this because of rope drag issues.
I would argue that it is about as fast as hiking, but a heck of a lot more fun.

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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Oct 24, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.
Darren in Vegas wrote:
I'm referring to MysterZ here: Yes, it is possible for strong 5.11 climbers to simul. I would recommend putting only 30m of rope between you and your partner if you do this because of rope drag issues. I would argue that it is about as fast as hiking, but a heck of a lot more fun.


+1

Just make sure you know where you're going so you don't waste a bunch of time on the route. There's a lot of 3rd/4th class on MysterZ that let's you move quickly.

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 24, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Thanks for all the beta, we plan on doing the mysterZ to armatron link but I like to have a back up in case someone else beats us there, sounds like it'll be best for us to make sure we are the first there.

Andy- the 6th might work out! This is a climbing trip with the wife and that'll be our last day there so let me run it past her and see what she thinks, she'll probably be pretty tired by that point. Did you have anything in mind?

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 24, 2012
South of Windy Peak
NickinCO wrote:
...but I like to have a back up in case someone else beats us there...

One time a party of six beat us to the base of MysterZ by like, 30 seconds. I asked if we (a party of 2) could jump ahead of them, I promised we'd be fast, we were in a rush because we were linking with Brownstone Wall and they said no. We ran up the gully to the right of MysterZ and were able to third class to the base of pitch 3, thus passing them pretty easily...

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 24, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
John Hegyes wrote:
One time a party of six beat us to the base of MysterZ by like, 30 seconds. I asked if we (a party of 2) could jump ahead of them, I promised we'd be fast, we were in a rush because we were linking with Brownstone Wall and they said no. We ran up the gully to the right of MysterZ and were able to third class to the base of pitch 3, thus passing them pretty easily...


excellent thanks, that's the kind of bullshit I was afraid of. My wife and I climb pretty fast, following groups of 3+ sucks.

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 24, 2012
South of Windy Peak
NickinCO wrote:
excellent thanks, that's the kind of bullshit I was afraid of. My wife and I climb pretty fast, following groups of 3+ sucks.

Yeah, I normally wouldn't pass like that, but the leader of the group of six was a jerk, running past us to the base of the crag.

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