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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face
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Arm and Hammer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 700', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg and Jerry Roberts, 1989
Season: Any when not closed for peregrines
Page Views: 2,368
Submitted By: andjoely on Oct 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Another shot of matt on the .10c pitch
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Excellent route that's probably over all the easiest of the headwall routes. The first couple pitches are the most dangerous and was the scene of perhaps the most severe accident in whitesides climbing history after a climber got severely off route on p2. Be careful with routefinding on these pitches! P2 aims for a hidden 2 bolt belay on a small ledge about 40 feet right of the coal mine corner.

See the attached topo for more details


Location 

same as Volunteer Wall


Protection 

single cams to #4 camalot, nuts, many slings and draws



Photos of Arm and Hammer Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the start of the route
Looking up at the start of the route
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Matt coming up the .10c third pitch
Matt coming up the .10c third pitch
Looking down from the top of the .12a pitch? Could be the top of the .11c, not sure
Looking down from the top of the .12a pitch? Could...
Comments on Arm and Hammer Add Comment
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By Tony spainhour
Sep 23, 2012

One of the best days I have had at Whitesides. I don't know why more people don't get out to this cliff. Fun! Fun! Fun! The first pitch entry moves are a little intimidating to warm-up on. But, it is a one or two moves of 5.9, to an obvious rail where you will find adequate gear... load it up, relax, your safe now and climb on. The next pitch is a little run out, but when is the last time you fell on 5.7-5.8. The 5.9 on the second pitch is protect by a nice shiny bolt. The 3rd pitch = 10.c ... just all around good climbing, be careful of the orange rock leading to the anchors. The rest is pretty much sport climbing with lots of air below you. This makes for nice clean falls. If you can't free it, you more than likely can AO it. The second needs to beware going into the bathtub. There is potential for a big, ahhhhhhhhh,exhilarating swing, into the great, wide, open, as I did. Make sure the second has something to ascend with. The guide books will have you believe the NC climbing is bold, scary, and really really death defying. To an extent it is, but not on this route.

By Monkey-sa
Apr 2, 2013

This route is absolutely fantastic! Great wall to fall in love with Whitesides on. It is full of lichen, loose rock and trick route finding, but every pitch is quality. The first pitch is nerve racking, but whoever leads this pitch is rewarded with the crux headwall pitch later on up, presuming y'all are swapping leads. Bathtub is a pain for both the leader and the follower, but much much scarier for the follower. The book says to bring a #4 cam, and I found a some-what-decent placement for a #3.
The weather was crazy, NOAA said partly sunny 10% chance rain, it ended up being sunny and beautiful in the morning and turned into a full on snow storm by the end. It felt like real adventurous mountain climbing. LOVE IT!

By sam england
Apr 14, 2013

This route is closed for the peregrine nesting from January 15 to August 15. Please take care not to climb on any routes left of Mainline (including Arm and Hammer) during these closures.