|The Prow & Reality Wall
Climb low angled dihedral and fingercrack to the base of the 12 foot roof crack. Pull through on jams and jugs over the lip and angle right on the chickenheads above to the anchors. You can continue to the top of the cliff in another easy pitch or just rap.
In the middle of the Reality Wall, halfway between the cave on the left and the arete on the right.
Gear to 3.5". 2 bolt anchor.
|By Chris Prewitt|
May 20, 2008
As fun of a roof-crack that you'll find in any part of the country. Don't let the grade fool you, it's well worth the effort. Watching someone TR this and whip outta the base of the roof is hilarious!
From: Fort Collins Colorado
Nov 4, 2013
Getting to the roof is a harer than it looks, the gear is small and challenging, two bd#2's protect the roof perfectly though you can also get a #3 or #3.5 in there if you want. Great climb!
|By Ed Wade|
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 24, 2014
A 1/2 inch cam works in the finger crack. There currently is a fixed wire at the end of the finger crack with a red biner ( 4/14). In the roof I used a bd#2, #3, #2 and then a #1 where the crack turns vertical.
|By C. Archibald|
May 12, 2014
This route humbled me. All my thrashing and hanging and french freeing wiggled a #2 deep into the top of the roof crack. Even with two nut tools taped together we couldn't recover the piece. My partner worked on it like a champ. I've been trad climbing for about 3 years and never lost a cam. Arkansas Reality took my gold C4. If you can get it out, enjoy. (5/11/2014)
I also thought that getting into the roof was surprising difficult. The lower finger crack is covered in lichen and sand. All the feet are very sloppy. Luckily I had great gear, a .4 and .5, because I fell twice getting into the roof.
I can climb 5.10 hands at the creek. That doesn't mean I was ready for this route!