Arkansas Climbing

Hi all,

I'm looking to build a list of the coolest, most fun, obscure routes in Arkansas. I want opinions on the best lines outside of HCR but those that are also obscure or not commonly climbed, such as the Grand Traverse or other unique lines. Thank you in advance for all of your input.

Go check out Stack Rock.

Hi Amanda...Rigby here.

This is not an obscure route but it does make my list for one of the most fun routes i have done in Arkansas and its not at HCR. Right to Flight at Mt Mag

mountainproject.com/v/right…

Great views and probably the most memorable 5.9 I have done in Arkansas. If you havent been on it or been to Mt mag, its worth a drive over.

Sweet all! The Harrison Climbing Club is looking to host an Arkansas climbing game, similar to GNAR...if you've ever seen it. We're hoping to launch within the next few days so we're looking for really neat lines to use for points and scores during the game. The game will be played at any Arkansas crag over the next two or three months. Grand Traverse comes to mind and Right to Flight because of their uniqueness. The other issue is that we need lines that moderate climbers can lead or follow.

Thanks all!

Slam dance at Sam's Throne. Really funky 5.7 or 5.8. It starts in the back of cave, climbs a hand crack, stems across the cave, and chimneys out a little hole in the roof of the cave. It's different for sure.

Also WMA, Deft Jams, and Hackberry Crack at HCR. They are different because they are so jam intensive in a predominantly face climbing state.

Mt Magazine State Park. About as obscure as you can find. Cool, the drive alone will take your breath away. Of course you will have to fight the hang-gliders for ledge space, but it works out; they take off, you climb...

The lodge/hotel, and restaurant are awesome.

Inherit the Wind at Sam's Throne done as a pure sport route. Also, 4 Feathers and Mouse Trap. And although I never even got close to climbing it, Dawn of the Harl always looked cool.

Wizard & Glass at Candy Mountain

Flat Fields, Too Big to Finger, and F.X. Special at Cave Creek

Hudson Crack, Gold Line, and the 5.9ish route at the very left end at Hudson Mountain like the last one.

Gracious Gift and Fastback at Valley of the Blind.

In all my years climbing in the Ozarks I was bummed I never made it to Red Rock Point. Looked like great climbing up there.

The Nose at Mt. Magazine is an incredible route. Solitaire is also a good route at that crag.

I agree about Slam Dance at Sam's. That may be the most unique route I've climbed in Arkansas. Pretty fun (especially if you like groveling), and climbing out through a hole in the ground at the top is pretty cool. Also at Sam's, Silverfish (in the Outback) is quite good. I've never actually climbed it, but Darkness at Noon always looked like a very interesting route. On Arkansas Roofs 101, it felt as though warmer air was being blown out of the crack, which is quite unique - not sure if that is usual, or if I just climbed it on an odd day. There are plenty of obscure zero-star and one-star trad routes to choose from at Sam's (and Valley of the Blind and Cave Creek), too, if that is your thing. At least when I was living in Arkansas a few years ago, pretty much anything at Sam's seemed somewhat obscure compared to HCR. Actually, anything in Arkansas that wasn't HCR seemed obscure, to a point. Not sure if that is still the case today.

Fastback at Valley of the Blind is good.

At Cave Creek, Stems and Seeds and Flat Fields are very unique routes for Arkansas. Brick Attack is stellar.

At Candy Mountain, Achilles Heel and Gracious Grant are both amazing climbs.

At Hudson Mountain, Hudson Crack is really good. At least as of about 3 years ago, it was also very dirty (and seemed pretty obscure) for how good the climbing was. Bucket Brigade is super fun.

A few years ago, everything at Stack Rock was obscure. Lots of good climbs there. Sanctified stands out as being particularly cool, since it is on a detached pillar.

For bouldering, check out the Slug Traverse at Lake Lincoln, and the Atomic Sit Start at Fountain Red.

I know Andy Nelson mentioned Red Rock Point...I never made it up there, either, but at least as of a few years ago, it sounded like access was a bit sensitive. I think it may be on private property? Or you have to go through some private property to get to the crag? It does look really cool, and I have heard good things from people who had climbed there in the past.

Hey this sounds like a fun concept to apply to climbing! While not exactly what you were looking for in this post, have you considered allocating points to climbing modern sport routs that were originally put up on trad? Routes like Private Property at HCR come to mind. Of course, if you want to stay away from the HCR scene that's cool too.

Cheers!

Freaking BRICK ATTACK! at cave creek. 12b

+1 for Flat Fields

Austin Piper wrote: I know Andy Nelson mentioned Red Rock Point...I never made it up there, either, but at least as of a few years ago, it sounded like access was a bit sensitive. I think it may be on private property? Or you have to go through some private property to get to the crag? It does look really cool, and I have heard good things from people who had climbed there in the past.

The "Crack of the Ozarks" up there always looked amazing. I too had friends and acquaintances who got to go up there. It most definitely is private property. Always heard that there was a lady who if you gave her a ham, she would let you park and access the area from the bottom. Don't know if that was some BS story or what. Might have heard that from Justin Frese, but can't remember.

Here's what we have so far:

Climb GnArkansas

http://climbgnarkansas.wordpress.com

facebook.com/climbgnarkansas

It's still evolving! Thank you to everyone for the recommendations. We built the game rather quickly but we do want to include specific lines in the future for points. Right now, we have a grand bonus for climbing one route at every published crag in the state. Another interesting point about this game, is that the point scale for sends is a bit different than normal competitions. We didn't want to award the strongest climbers, but award those who can play the best. So a 5.8 climber and a 5.12 climber have equal opportunity to win. It's more about being ridiculous when you climb instead of being strong and focused. :) I think the Harrison Climbing Club is going to host a weekend game in a few weeks at HCR.

Amanda

Nobleman wrote:Hey this sounds like a fun concept to apply to climbing! While not exactly what you were looking for in this post, have you considered allocating points to climbing modern sport routs that were originally put up on trad? Routes like Private Property at HCR come to mind. Of course, if you want to stay away from the HCR scene that's cool too. Cheers!

We have points for doing sport lines on all trad gear. The game is more of a way to make fun of the HCR scene. Like there are bonus points for getting Barry and the climbing guides autograph on an HCR postcard....which is funny and stupid at the same time.

Darkness at noon - Sam's
Box Canyon - Lake Lincoln
Trail of fears – Fern
Thirteen Crack – Lake Lincoln
Arkansas Reality – Sam's
Biscuits & Jam -Sheperd Springs

Just to name a few..

Those are bad routes Agjohns..."Crimp Scampi" and "Green Goblin" are better!

There are bonus points for climbing Green Goblin naked!

Andy Nelson wrote:Inherit the Wind at Sam's Throne done as a pure sport route. Also, 4 Feathers and Mouse Trap. And although I never even got close to climbing it, Dawn of the Harl always looked cool. Wizard & Glass at Candy Mountain Flat Fields, Too Big to Finger, and F.X. Special at Cave Creek Hudson Crack, Gold Line, and the 5.9ish route at the very left end at Hudson Mountain like the last one. Gracious Gift and Fastback at Valley of the Blind. In all my years climbing in the Ozarks I was bummed I never made it to Red Rock Point. Looked like great climbing up there.

If I recall, you did have a chance to go to Red Rocks, but you decided to study for a test, or something along that nature.

The access to the top of Red Rock Point belongs to Denver Smith in Jasper. As I recall, he owned the feed store there. We would stop by the store and request permission from him. His concerns were people driving across his hayfield and leaving gates open. He said that some hang gliders from LR had cut his fences at one time. He may be deceased by this time as that was about 30 years ago...

As far as Red Rock Point is concerned...the Ham story is true. Acceptable Troll-toll payments include...HAM(honey glazed), Marlboro Reds(100s), Busch(heavy), and for a bonus...Bacon Strips Dog treats for their pup.

Gracious Grant (Candy Mountain)

Chicken Leg Joe (Rock Creek)

Bucket Brigade (Hudson Mountain)

Wizards and Glass (Candy Mountain)

Job 3:25 (Sam's Throne)

Wandering Spirit (Cave Creek)