Alright, where the #*&! are the Coke Bottle rappels? I got so confused trying to find them after doing The Classic. We ended up having to walk off to the east which is a horrendous walk-off. Are the rappels just down the right side of the knife edge on pitch 3? We did the High Exposure Exit, so how do we get to the rappels from that ramp? Are the rappel stations bolted or slung stuff? Any help would much appreciated, especially specific details and maybe pictures.

the first rap is off the front of a large waist height boulder on top, closer to the top out gully of High Exposure than Beaver Cleaver. It is 102', so take a long rope or doubles. The next two are shorter (about 90' each) and head down chains on Coke Bottle. If you know where Coke Bottle is (and what it looks like) you cannot miss them.

The east side walk off (around Easy Chair) was standard for three decades.

If I remember correctly, the first Coke Bottle rap is just to the right of where the High Exposure finish tops out. But I think you have to climb a bit higher and then scramble down some.

And Rick's definitely right; you wanna have a long-ass 60m rope, a 70m rope, double-ropes, or be a comfortable doing a very short--but exposed--down-climb to the second set of anchors.

Good luck!

--Marc

Every time I did the coke bottle raps, I got a rope stuck at least once. Coulda been me. I haven't done em in a while, I thought the walk off was less hassle. Although, in this heat I can understand avoiding the walk off.

and to all, I was standing there when the bolts went in after the pow-wow at Waugh's house.

I have never had any trouble with the Coke bottle raps, aside from waiting for people below. They are obvious if you know that route, and or take a decent look around. There are no flags pointing to them, but they are there, what more can you ask for? All new parties to the area might want to hike around and properly locate the descent line ahead of time (isn't that just common sense?). And, good work Rickd. It is a great way to descend and has been the standard for years and years now.

Now, just to throw it out there, what about a rap line that goes down Tom's Thumb? It could incorporate belay/rap anchors for that line (which is seldom lead, but it does see some action) + create a nice left side descent route... Just a thought. I wouldn't do anything without hearing some others interests, but Tom's Thumb could use a little love in the way of the hardware department.

JJ

I thought this thread was going to be about, as the title suggests, a coke bottle rappelling off Granite Mountain. Before I clicked I had hilarious visions of a Coke bottle with aviators, a mullet, and a porn-star moustache on rappell. Imagine my horror when I found out this was actually a serious climbing thread.

Jeremy-

The intermediate rappels were installed because the ongoing damage to the trees AND multiple anchors showing up all over that wall (I remember cutting 2-3 rap stations on Falling Ross that day, and two intermediate stations on Coke Bottle).

The top rap was originally a Rusty Baillie installed temporary station (chockstone or something). The idea was to divert traffic to the no so often climbed route Coke Bottle (greg, ahhh, I mean a classic). For me, it was really a big leap to accept this. Still to this day I don't like sport type "convenience anchors" - those bolt stations 5' apart at the top of each route. I thought, if you made the top you can make the walk off. The Easy Chair gully walk off was getting hammered and no one wanted to trail build. The choice was made to accept this one extra station and divert middle section traffic down a single set of anchors and save the erosion on the Easy Chair gully.

As for another rap. Much of the swamp slabs descent is slabs not prone to erosion. Thus, most everything from Tom's Thumb to the slabs can be directed over that direction (even though some rap the treebeard big tree). Everything else can hit coke bottle with a little scrambling. Those are my thoughts........

wow, jeremy sure makes people feel absolutely stupid... thanks buddy.

rsh,

I am sorry if I came off as rude. All I said is what I know. The Coke Bottle raps have been there for years and years, thousands of people have descended upon them, and are even shown in Stewart Greens Falcon guide to Arizona on page, 323 with arrows pointing one in the general direction. The anchors are all bolted, no slings attached... If you are going to climb up a cliff, you should know how to get down. That is not rude, it is, as I stated, common sense.

And as far as walking off, I have done that plenty of times (no sympathy), as well as, bushwacking dozens of times to different points on the top ridge of Granite mountain simply to explore well beyond the main face. There are amazing places to behold up there! Anyway, it is rugged terrain, no doubt, but I will bet you find the first set of anchors next time...

JJ

The rap anchors are back up to the climbers's left of the High Exposure exit, not the right. As stated they are on a big block. One 60 meter rope will get you to the ground with no problems and no sketchy downclimbing. There are giant metolius rap hangars on 1/2" stainless steel bolts (good ol' Rusty specials) the whole way down. I've never had a problem getting my rope stuck except for the one time I forgot to untie the knot at the end of my rope and I had to basically solo Coke Bottle at sunset to get it back.

Hey Greg,

I am pretty sure from the High Exposure Exit, that the first set of rap anchors on the Coke Bottle descent are climbers right, down the line away. Left, if one is facing out from the cliff. JJ

Jeremy - HEE sort of dumps you in a corner/gully that you can scramble up to boulders. Anchors are up and left from the corner. From the ridge formed by the Flying Buttress, the anchors are directly above and just slightly right to enable the rappel off down the (climbers) right side of the top edge of the Flying Buttress.

Greg De - I had a 60m rope once that turned out to be slightly less than 60m (this happens - not all ropes are created equally). Had to be very careful with that one on that first rappel from the top. Something to look out for...

My bad, I haven't rapped coke bottle since it was a slingfest to get down. Must have changed the raps enough to make them less likely to get stuck. Rap away.

uhhh you missed them after the Classic? you climbed right through the first on the 5.6 "High Exposure" traverse. straight down.

Greg Opland is right about coming into a gully, then going left. straight down from there with a good view of the flying buttress. anyone ever scrambled from the top of pitch 3(?) where you are straddling the Buttress out onto it? seems hairy but fun. just a thought.

Jeremy- Maybe you're thinking of Beaver Cleaver? Or perhaps you take a more direct finish to the High Exposure exit than most people. The anchors are straight up from the Flying Buttress and the High Exposure traverses right so I don't see how the anchors could be any further right.

Greg Opland- Which rap was short for you? The first rap from the top to the ledge below the apex of the Flying Buttress? Or the next one down?

Yeah I guess I do remember that being kind of tight. It's been a couple years. You can always just rap to the top of the buttress and then do the scramble if you have to.