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Cochise route chopped, take 2

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By Eric Rhicard
Jul 16, 2009

Eric Rhicard wrote:
If you guys really think about it does anyone else who puts up routes in Southern Arizona get BASHED? Why do you think that is? Hell does anyone in Arizona? I have been putting up stuff for years but I don't fear this site and I am not afraid to post up and take my lumps. I think you guys sit and listen to Scott's tales of persecution and believe it is all so undeserved. Anyone attacked Andy Peters, Tony Horness, Me, Jim Scott, Ray Ringle, Mike Head, Dave DesChamps Tony Lusk. NO. I wonder why?



Still waiting for responses from all of you guys who seem to be protecting Scott Ayers.


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By Eric Rhicard
Jul 16, 2009

Eric Rhicard wrote:
Scott has chopped the Beaver Wall, twice I think. Moved another parties anchors at Munchkinland without talking to them. Told people not to cross his routes when Endgame crosses five and there are many other examples of this. Talked about not chiseling and did it, told everyone they should not steal other peoples routes and finished one at Munchkinland by "working" it down to his level, then said he thought it was the guys from NOLS putting it up. So it is okay to snake a route from the NOLS guys! he has also chopped a route on Sheepshead that was lead by Dave Jones in bold style. He also bolted over a very run out route on Sheepshead that Dave lead ground up with almost no pro.


Diesen, Jon R., Dudley, Daryl. What do you think about this stuff. For the record "working" means chiseling. Did Scott ever mention any of this to you guys? I dare you to ask him.

I am not posting here to smear Scott Ayers, his actions over the years and finally on Endgame say more than I can. I merely point it out so you guys in the climbing community will stand up and say to Scott or anyone else who pulls this crap, it is not okay. That is all you have to do unless you want other guys doing what Scott did.

How about any one of you who has read this or posted answer this question. Should anyone do what Scott Ayers did on End Pinnacle? Just answer the question.


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By Dan Cohen
From Phoenix, AZ
Jul 16, 2009
Self Portrait

Eric,

No, I'm not suggesting that Scott can't explain himself.

By the way, yes, Scott did mention some of that stuff you listed. I'm not here to defend Scott's actions.

I've spent the last few days moving to Phoenix, so I haven't spent much time on the computer. I'm in Chicago right now visiting my brother and his wife for the next 8 days. I am heading off on a camping trip for a few days tomorrow with my brother, so I will be away from the computer. I am happy to get more in depth with this when I get back to Phoenix (where I am living for a few months). I would gladly chat about this on the phone or even over a cold beer. I'll post up when I get back.

Dan


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By Mike Diesen
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 16, 2009

More conflict? I think someone missed out on the "penis come out drink beer get Dudley excited relieve tension smoke cigarette". Daryl, get your huge penis ready for more action.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jul 16, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

Eric Rhicard wrote:
How about any one of you who has read this or posted answer this question. Should anyone do what Scott Ayers did on End Pinnacle? Just answer the question.

Is that an invitation to the peanut gallery? I read the thread today, found it troubling, very entertaining, and sad. Here are a few conclusions:

I already knew Ruland was a funny guy. Daryl is funnier than Shiite (and I think his wife has a hardware fetish), APT's comment about Indian spirits was classic, and Scott McN's four sentence summary was one of the funniest posts I've read on MP. You're a hilarious quality crew.

If certain posted accounts are true, Scott A., whatever else good may be said of him, has done and said some indefensible things. Some of those things have splashed on you. You justly resent it. (I don't know if your bill of health is perfectly clean, but posts have been more explicit about Scott A.)

Now here's where I piss you off: You are poisoned with it and you keep drinking the poison. Because your accusation is righteous (it appears) you demand that bystanders and the universe join you in condemning the sins. Any attempt by human beings to make human allowances, and not condemn a mutual friend triggers your resentment and cross-examination. You seek satisfaction through laying bare genuine faults, and seeing your peers nod their agreement.

I'm sorry friend, it's a dead end. God didn't make your soul to be fed or comforted that way. (Nor did natural selection/evolution if that's your prism: righteous indignation is an expensive emotion with little utility in the survival sweepstakes.) Your desire to see Scott A called out for his actions is hurting you far more than him or anyone else.

None of my business and I'll probably delete this in the morning. But you asked. You practically demanded. And I decided to tell you how it looks even to someone who is persuaded you are "right."


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Jul 17, 2009
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
That an invitation to the peanut gallery? I read the thread today, found it troubling, very entertaining, and sad. Here are a few conclusions: I already knew Ruland was a funny guy. Scott McN's four sentence summary was one of the funniest posts I've read on MP. If certain posted accounts are true, Scott A., whatever else good may be said of him, has done and said some indefensible things. Some of those things have splashed on you. You justly resent it. (I don't know if your bill of health is perfectly clean, but posts have been more explicit about Scott A.) Now here's where I piss you off: you are poisoned with it and you keep drinking the poison. Because your accusation is righteous (it appears) you demand that bystanders and the universe join you in condemning the sins. Any attempt by human beings to make human allowances, and not condemn a mutual friend triggers your resentment and cross-examination. You seek satisfaction through laying bare genuine faults, and seeing your peers nod their agreement. I'm sorry friend, it's a dead end. God didn't make your soul to be fed or comforted that way. (Nor did natural selection/evolution if that's your prism: righteous indignation is an expensive emotion with little utility in the survival sweepstakes.) Your desire to see Scott A called out for his actions is hurting you far more than anyone else. None of my business and I'll probably delete this in the morning (empasis mine). But you asked. You practically demanded. And I decided to tell you how it looks even to someone who is persuaded you are "right."


Haha no deleting it now!

Those SoAZ guys talk about each others penises and everyone seems happy. They talk about climbing and everyone seems unhappy. Good thing I'm heading up north next w/e!

NoAZ climbers don't seem to argue as much. Well, unless they're bitching about us Phoenix climbers!

Oh and FWIW, if someone chopped one of my routes I'd be pissed. Then again, it is kind of hard to chop a trad route.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Eric Rhicard wrote:
Diesen, Jon R., Dudley, Daryl. What do you think about this stuff. For the record "working" means chiseling. Did Scott ever mention any of this to you guys? I dare you to ask him.


eric, i'll talk to you about this stuff when we climb tomorrow.


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2009
baby seagulls

Eric,

Way to go calling it like it is. And I think you're right, it's important for the folks who've been posting here to weigh in on your questions!

I'm out in the wilderness for a few days. Looking forward to seeing the responses.


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 17, 2009

Jon Ruland wrote:
eric, i'll talk to you about this stuff when we climb tomorrow.

Eric, I'm sure this isn't what you wanted to hear but Jon kinda beat me to it. Though we don't climb together, given the amount of mutual acquaintances we share i feel it's only a matter of time until we do meet. I would rather you get a 1st hand impression of me before i start spewing opinions on a complex matter such as this from behind a keyboard. I've heard nothing but praise about you from everyone that knows you (including Scott) and am attempting to not get off on the wrong foot with anyone here i haven't met [in person] yet.

IOW, if you're going to dislike me, do so because of the way i look, smell, or grab-ass, but not because of the way i came across on a web forum (i'm usually well into the ales by the time i get to the keyboard).

Please accept my abstaining from your question(s) but i will say this: Aside from the small number of people intimately involved in this saga from the very beginning, i feel there are few that can speak with any authority on this delicate matter. Yes, i can answer questions regarding how i might react to particular situations but the bottom line here is that i realize that a short four years here makes me a newcomer to the area. I've made a conscious effort to remain neutral in issues like this from the moment i caught wind of their existence. I'm not faulting anyone here for providing their opinions on the matter regardless of their knowledge thereof; i simply choose not do the same unless i were more involved and felt i could voice an opinion based more solidly on facts i know to be true and fair to all concerned parties.

How's that for politically correct? Man, I could be a senator.


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By Eric Rhicard
Jul 20, 2009

Nice dodge to the questions Daryl. But it would be nice if you guys would answer the questions because in the end it isn't about me and Scott Ayers. In the end it is about what is acceptable practice in our climbing community. I am not asking you guys to dislike Scott, I am asking you and everyone else to condemn his actions. As I said before if you don't and you continue to put up routes in the stronghold it will happen to you. It took some other issues between Geir and Scott for Geir to see that the public Scott and the Scott that PM's everyone, or sneaks up to End Pinnacle, and is afraid to post is all about. So I just want answers to basic questions of what you guys think is acceptable. But if you would rather say it to me in person where Scott will not see it in writing then you will make a great politician.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Eric Rhicard wrote:
Nice dodge to the questions Daryl. But it would be nice if you guys would answer the questions because in the end it isn't about me and Scott Ayers. In the end it is about what is acceptable practice in our climbing community. I am not asking you guys to dislike Scott, I am asking you and everyone else to condemn his actions. As I said before if you don't and you continue to put up routes in the stronghold it will happen to you. It took some other issues between Geir and Scott for Geir to see that the public Scott and the Scott that PM's everyone, or sneaks up to End Pinnacle, and is afraid to post is all about. So I just want answers to basic questions of what you guys think is acceptable. But if you would rather say it to me in person where Scott will not see it in writing then you will make a great politician.


i will ask scott about this next time i see him. if i think he didn't have a good reason for doing what he did, i will ask him why he thought it would be a good idea to throw fuel on an already raging fire of controversy.

i can't condemn him though. i hate controversy and i just don't have the balls you do to call somebody out on something like this. mine are like grapes compared to your grapefruits. tiny, seedless grapes. that have been out in the sun a while. so like, raisins. or something.

long story short i don't want to take a side in this conflict.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jul 20, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

Jon Ruland wrote:
mine are like grapes...tiny, seedless grapes. that have been out in the sun a while. so like, raisins. or something.

Did you hone this line of argument on a date or something...after the drug store was closed?

EDIT: Mike, Ruland's with ya, or at least in that anatomical vicinity.


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By Mike Dudley
From Tucson
Jul 20, 2009
Crux of Picante Sauce - Picante Roof

Just got back from the Sierras... can we just go back to talking about weiners?


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
baby seagulls

Eric Rhicard wrote:
it would be nice if you guys would answer the questions because in the end it isn't about me and Scott Ayers. In the end it is about what is acceptable practice in our climbing community.


right on. anyone reading the two threads regarding this can see that the majority of people who voiced an opinion regarding chopping was against it. if someone has a problem with a particular route, they can voice their concerns to the community and let them weigh in. rogue chopping only leads to more of the same.

nobody is exempt from this, even if he has put up a lot of routes in the stronghold as scott has. if his actions are out of line with the local ethic he's going to be called on it.

as it appears that scott isn't going to fix what he's done, i will personally help repair the hardware unless the community decides otherwise.

Mike Diesen wrote:
We piss them off bad enough they may decide there efforts here aren't appreciated and go somewhere else taking the thousands of dollars worth of their hardware with them.


this is not the first time that i have heard this. i think it would be pretty lame if scott said this to mike.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
Did you hone this line of argument on a date or something...after the drug store was closed?


no! no of course not!

Mike Dudley wrote:
Just got back from the Sierras... can we just go back to talking about weiners?


here we go:


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By Dan Cohen
From Phoenix, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
Self Portrait

I'm back early. Injuries suck.

Eric,

I'm not sure how you perceived my post as saying that Scott can't explain himself on mountainproject. I said he won't, not can't. Again, if you guys want him to explain himself, he would show up in a public meeting. I still don't understand why you don't have any interest in this.

You might ask me, why won't Scott explain himself on here? Well, it's pretty simple. People tend to be far more rational in person than behind a computer screen. Think of it like this Eric, if these threads contained things like: "Eric is spineless, Eric needs counseling, Eric is the Ken Nichols of the west, I hate Eric, I encourage everyone to chop every one of Eric's routes," you would think it is completely ridiculous, right? You are a popular guy on mountainproject. Scott is not.

I have trouble buying this whole thing is about the communinity, not the squabble between Scott and Eric because: YOU AREN'T CALLING OUT RICKD. If you guys really care about the community, why aren't you calling this out? Don't you think Rick is being extremely antagonistic? Wouldn't chopping all of Scott's routes be terrible for the community?

Furtheremore, Eric, what about your threats on the previous thread about raining on the sheepshead? Those are about chopping Scott's routes in retaliation to Scott messing with any of your routes (or variations in this instance), right? Is it justified to chop Scott's routes because he changed your bolt hangers? Or even if he had chopped your routes, is it acceptable to chop his? Is this really about the community?

Have you done anything to antagonize Scott? Yes, Scott has done some foolish things. He has told me he regrets some things he did. Scott, for example, told me he regrets messing with Ray Ringle's routes on the Beaver Wall. At that time, did you have the wisdom to know rap-bolting would be a generally acceptable way to bolt routes? From how he described it, he and Ringle are able to laugh about it now because Scott realizes he was being foolish then. Eric, have you done anything regrettable? Do you have a perfect record? As some biblical text says, (I'm not a religious dude, so I don't really know) let he who is without sin cast the first stone.

Geir, if this is about the community, why aren't you calling out Rickd? Why aren't you calling out Eric's threats to chop Scott's routes? You said you are against chopping anyone's bolts ("a position which actually benefits Scott") but it seems you are only concerned with Scott's actions.

While Scott switching the hangers isn't be best way to handle the beef with Eric, do the hangers need "repair?" Are the hangers Scott put up unsafe or inferior in any way? According to Eric's guidebook, we should be using camoflauge bolts whenever possible.

Again, I'm not here to defend Scott's actions. All I'm saying is that the whole "for the community" argument is a thin veil for the anti-Scott vendetta.

Just answer the questions.


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
baby seagulls

Dan Cohen wrote:
Geir, if this is about the community, why aren't you calling out Rickd? Why aren't you calling out Eric's threats to chop Scott's routes?


I am against all chopping. If anyone chops one of Scott's lines, I will help replace it. To my knowledge, since I have moved here, nobody has chopped any of Scott's lines.

[EDIT: I'm against all chopping without gaining the approval of the community first. Should have said this initially, but was at work and rushed.]


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
baby seagulls

Dan Cohen wrote:
I'm back early. Injuries suck. Eric, I'm not sure how you perceived my post as saying that Scott can't explain himself on mountainproject. I said he won't, not can't. Again, if you guys want him to explain himself, he would show up in a public meeting. I still don't understand why you don't have any interest in this. You might ask me, why won't Scott explain himself on here? Well, it's pretty simple. People tend to be far more rational in person than behind a computer screen ... Eric, what about your threats on the previous thread about raining on the sheepshead? Those are about chopping Scott's routes in retaliation to Scott messing with any of your routes (or variations in this instance), right? ... He has told me he regrets some things he did. Scott, for example, told me he regrets messing with Ray Ringle's routes on the Beaver Wall. At that time, did you have the wisdom to know rap-bolting would be a generally acceptable way to bolt routes? From how he described it, he and Ringle are able to laugh about it now because Scott realizes he was being foolish then.


So Dan, are you Scott's spokesperson on MP now?

It sounds to me like you are simply relaying the contents of this thread to Scott, and he's telling you what to say. Is this the case?


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By Dan Cohen
From Phoenix, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
Self Portrait

I understand you say you are opposed to chopping anyone's bolts. Does that not present some conflict with Rick's call to chop all of Scott's routes, or Eric's threat to chop Scott's routes on the sheepshead? Considering you put a lot of time and effort into your sheepshead and Troll Wall topos, doesn't this bother you?

Let me present this parallel: if someone said, we should hack into Geir's website and destroy his topos, would you hope someone would speak out against this? Especially if a member of the community had publicly said they are against hacking into websites and destroying topos? Or would you do nothing until your topos were gone? (I am sure your topos are backed up on your computer, but you get the idea, right?).

I'm not trying to restrict Rick's right to freedom of speech, I'm encouraging you to back your words by using the same freedom of speech to discourage routes from being chopped.

Geir Hundal wrote:
So Dan, are you Scott's spokesperson on MP now? It sounds to me like you are simply relaying the contents of this thread to Scott, and he's telling you what to say. Is this the case?


No, I'm not Scott's spokesperson. Yes, I have discussed some things with him. I have asked him some questions, including questions about his actions, and he has responded. The Ringle thing, Scott told me about that a while before Eric brought it up.

It's pretty insulting to say that I am simply relaying Scott words. Not that I needed encouragement to talk to Scott about his regrettable actions, but Eric asked us to. I do it, and I am accused of simply passing Scott's words.


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 20, 2009

Eric Rhicard wrote:
But it would be nice if you guys would answer the questions
Okay, fair enough...

-If someone chopped one of my routes, would i be upset? Yes.

-If someone replaced my hardware, would i be upset? Initially; probably. Long-term; hard to say without getting a rationale first. If it was unwarranted, i would be upset but not as upset as if it were just removed.

-Are Scott's actions, in this scenario, acceptable? Impossible to say without knowing what his reasoning was/is.

Just curious.. Has anyone called to ask him what his reasoning was/is? I would, but this just isn't my fight. As Geir pointed out [indirectly], it concerns all of us and i agree with that since we all climb there. However, IMHO, it's not my place to confront him on this. Now, if it were my route he replaced hangers on, i would have called him to ask why he did so.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jul 20, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

Dan Cohen wrote:
I understand you say you are opposed to chopping anyone's bolts. Does that not present some conflict with Rick's call to chop all of Scott's routes, or Eric's threat to chop Scott's routes on the sheepshead?

Ah c'mon, Dan. Big difference between someone who chopped and someone who sprayed: "I hope his routes get chopped."

At least argue soundly. You're pushing the peanut gallery to the Rhichard/Hundal axis.


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By Dan Cohen
From Phoenix, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
Self Portrait

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
Ah c'mon, Dan. Big difference between someone who chopped and someone who sprayed: "I hope his routes get chopped." At least argue soundly. You're pushing the peanut gallery to the Rhichard/Hundal axis.


I agree there is a big difference between talking about chopping and actually chopping. I'm not saying we should go chop every, or any route Rick has done. I'm saying we (especially Geir, who says he is opposed to any chopping) should condemn Rick's call for chopping. Rick didn't say "I hope his routes get chopped." He said "I call out to all of you to chop every Scott Ayres route on the planet and start over!" Then, he, or admin, deleted his post! I applaud admin if it indeed that is the case.

This is another example of the inherent faultiness of mountainproject and online forums. What you referred to as spraying, as if to minimize it, I don't think would be acceptable in an in-person forum.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

geir, dan: there seems to be a rift developing between the two of you in this thread, which seems very unfortunate to me because i had always thought you guys were friends--or if not friends, friendly acquaintances. i have climbed with and hung out with both of you guys at the same time, and it always seemed like you were friends. maybe i was wrong, i don't know, but i personally would be very sad if the two of you stopped speaking to each other or each ended up with reservations about the other because of this. we are clearly getting no where. let's not kill another friendship because of this.


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By Dan Cohen
From Phoenix, AZ
Jul 20, 2009
Self Portrait

Jon Ruland wrote:
geir, dan: there seems to be a rift developing between the two of you in this thread, which seems very unfortunate to me because i had always thought you guys were friends--or if not friends, friendly acquaintances. i have climbed with and hung out with both of you guys at the same time, and it always seemed like you were friends. maybe i was wrong, i don't know, but i personally would be very sad if the two of you stopped speaking to each other or each ended up with reservations about the other because of this. we are clearly getting no where. let's not kill another friendship because of this.


Jon, there is obviously a rift between our perceptions of the whole situation. I don't want that to effect my relationship with Geir. I did consider us friends and am totally open to being friends again, not that I personally dislike him now. The day I climbed with Geir on the sheepshead, I had a genuinely good time and learned some racking techniques that I consistently use. But I do think Geir is trying to rally this issue against Scott for personal reasons. My posts to Geir have been an attempt to call that out. It's not because I'm friends with Scott. It's because I really care about the Tucson climbing community. I have repeatedly said I don't approve of Scott's actions. He openly admits, at least to anyone who cares to ask, he has made mistakes. If he wouldn't admit it, I would call him out too.

With that said, I am not on this thread to make friends at the expense of my dignity. So Geir, (and Eric, who I have been critical of too) I would love to be friends and climb with you guys (I offered to talk about all this over a beer, I would still do that), but I think the climbing community is bigger than my friendships with you guys or Scott.

I think this is a record for number of posts by one person in an hour, or at least it feels like it.


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By philfell
From Olympic Valley, CA
Jul 20, 2009

Dan Cohen wrote:
He openly admits, at least to anyone who cares to ask, he has made mistakes. If he wouldn't admit it, I would call him out too.



As a lurker on this thread this statement is just plain sad. It sounds like a spoiled teenager who knows he is doing stuff he shouldn't but does it anyways then thinks everything will be OK by simply saying "I'm sorry.....Yeah that was foolish....." It's fine to make mistakes, it's how we learn....but at some point you need to learn from these mistakes. Simply owning up to them isn't enough if you are going to repeat them.

Eric clearly going about this on the internet is not going to get the results you are looking for. Have you simply called Scott on the phone and asked him why he switched your hardware? Seems a bit petty to keep pushing the online thing, just talk it out man to man.

Dan someone spraying for an all out world wide bolt chopping spree on the internet is very different than someone actually chopping. You have said this yourself in regards to Scott choosing not to post online, because people say things that they normally wouldn't in person. It's weak, quit playing both sides on this.


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