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Cochise route chopped, take 2

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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 14, 2009

Mike Dudley wrote:
just climb and be happy...

Nice... I was trying to imagine what i would like to say if we were all sitting in the same room having this discussion. I like everyone involved here so I'm doing my very best to stay out of it. :)


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By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 14, 2009
Sheepshead.  Cochise Stronghold.  Approaching Absinthe of Mallet in the snow.  December, 2001.

Jon Ruland wrote:
it's easy to take a small part of someone's post, focus on it, dissect it at face value without allowing any room for nuance, and then call the poster out for it. it doesn't accomplish anything aside from starting flame wars. james, it's not fair for me to single you out on this issue, so i apologize for that. your post is just an example.


Jon, that is a totally fair criticism, and I understand that is exactly how my post appears. However, my thoughts expressed there are based on more than Eric's one post. His post merely presented an opportunity to vocalize them. I am taking what Eric wrote at face value.

I stand by the assertion that personal issues have played a role both in the chopping and in the establishment of the variation in the first place. I know for a fact that other local climbers have the same impression.

To be clear, I am not defending the alleged chopper(s). I have been equally critical of Scott, though that was through personal communication as he refuses to participate in any public forum that he doesn't deem worthy.

I do credit Eric for having the huevos to participate in, and contribute to, a public forum in which he sometimes gets criticized. I do respect that, although my previous post does not demonstrate it (hey, I get emotional like anybody...)


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 14, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

James DeRoussel wrote:
Jon, that is a totally fair criticism, and I understand that is exactly how my post appears. However, my thoughts expressed there are based on more than than Eric's one post. His post merely presented an opportunity to vocalize them. I am taking what Eric wrote at face value.


fair enough. it's a reasonable question; i just hope the way you phrased it evokes a reasonable answer.

also,



/except we're in arizona


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By Mike Diesen
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 14, 2009

Ok fine, Daryl and I went out and replaced the bolts as a joke. We will be at Sweet Rock this weekend ready to discuss our actions or just kick anyone's ass that doesn't like our sense of humor. I'd drag Scott with me but he is headed to Canada to get married and will be gone for about a month.


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By Mike Dudley
From Tucson
Jul 14, 2009
Crux of Picante Sauce - Picante Roof

Noooo what happened to lets all be happy and climb?


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By Mike Diesen
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 14, 2009

rickd wrote:
...I am more than happy that people are questioning Ayres. His poor tactics have ruined 1000's of climbs. The war came to a head in the Stronghold BEFORE EFR was spending a lot of time there. Stepping on toes is a SA trademark. I call out to all of you to chop every Scott Ayres route on the planet and start over! (do it w/o a bosch) I for one, I hate his guts. I'll be happy the day he moves to Nebraska or his portable drill breaks permanently.

Hey Rick, how many of Scott's Routes have you climbed? I hate a hypocrite so please tell me you've never touched one of his bolts with a quick draw.


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By mobley
From Haven, Ct
Jul 14, 2009


Ken loves hearing these stories.


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By rickd
Jul 14, 2009

mike- that's freaking hysterical. I have not 'owned' a quick draw in 20 years. I have touched Scott's bolts with a bolt cutter!

I've done:
-Peacemaker (a pile o shiat, my partner gave it the one star)
-Absinthe
-the crap he rebolted on the Druid that I chopped (because I FA'd the damn thing)
-some BS thing he did right of Cap'm Pissgums (drilling bolts off of camalot placements!) which DDC and I affectionately called "traversing pansy ass".
-Bogeet Mondoo? behind faded rock
-one or two short routes on the fins , the names who cares
-Magna Veritas right of Days (which Fowler lead)
-and the first pitch of one of the routes near the discussed --DDC fell asleep belaying me as second

I've seen what he has done. I have argued with him face to face. I EVEN returned chopped hardware which he felt was his god given right to replace (contrary to someone else on this board they are freaking buttonhead rawls- not zmacs).

oh, I am getting worked up and will have to,... turning green... shirt ripping..
Hulk Smash....


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By Mike Diesen
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 14, 2009

So you've clipped one of Scott's bolts with a carabiner that had a sling attached to it and then with another carabiner attached to the sling you clipped to your rope? You just don't own any of them fancy new gagets called quickdraws that are 2 carabiners with a sewn sling between them. Kind of a cool new invention.


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By Cota
From Skagway AK
Jul 14, 2009

Hmmm, after all the crap that has been talked about this, along with some of the other crap you people have done down there, I am super glad that I dont live in that area. Its climbing people... No one is sleeping with your wife, its something we do for FUN!!!!
(it has been fun lurking, though)


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By TopRope Princess
Jul 14, 2009

Wow, who needs soap operas or gossip when you've got posts like these. You guys beat the ladies hands down for cattiness!


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 14, 2009

Mike Diesen wrote:
We will be at Sweet Rock this weekend ready to discuss our actions or just kick anyone's ass that doesn't like our sense of humor.

Uh huh... well I'll be over here with this guy if anyone asks..


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By J. Albers
From California
Jul 14, 2009
Bucky

Rick,

I clearly don't know the whole story about Scott and it is quite possible that I would agree with you in certain, or even a lot, of instances. That said, it is a bit hyperbolic to say that ALL of his routes should be chopped. I have personally climbed some of his routes in California and they are absolutely top notch (and yes, you DO need supplemental gear for some of them). In fact, two weeks ago, I did probably the single best 10b I have ever done....and yes, I have done a shit ton of 5.10's at many classic crags in countless states and different countries, so I do have a pretty large frame of reference. Hands down, his route was super high quality. If somebody chopped it, I would be f**king pissed, and it would be a real shame for the community.

just my 2 cents.


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By Eric Rhicard
Jul 14, 2009

Just for the record James I bolted them because they are fun climbs and give other climbers the chance to climb them. The fact that Scott tried to tell me that I was not allowed to do them, well that was easy.


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By Eric Rhicard
Jul 14, 2009

As for those of you that think this is just one guy fighting with another over turf, you are wrong.

Someone said he doesn't like Hypocrites. Neither do I.

Scott has chopped the Beaver Wall, twice I think. Moved another parties anchors at Munchkinland without talking to them. Told people not to cross his routes when Endgame crosses five and there are many other examples of this. Talked about not chiseling and did it, told everyone they should not steal other peoples routes and finished one at Munchkinland by "working" it down to his level, then said he thought it was the guys from NOLS putting it up. So it is okay to snake a route from the NOLS guys! he has also chopped a route on Sheepshead that was lead by Dave Jones in bold style. He also bolted over a very run out route on Sheepshead that Dave lead ground up with almost no pro.

Daryl, you can stick your head in the sand and Mike D. you can protect SA but you haven't watched the hypocrisy for 20 plus years as many of us have.

If Scott is willing to do what he did on Endgame just wait until you guys do something he doesn't approve of.

Finally I say again, If Scott has nothing to hide then he should stand by his actions and respond to the community on this site where we can all judge his actions by reading what his reasoning is.

Instead he calaims he is persecuted and he gets you guys to stand up for him. You know him, he is a smart articulate guy and I say he avoids the public forums because he knows how silly he will look.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 15, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Cota wrote:
Hmmm, after all the crap that has been talked about this, along with some of the other crap you people have done down there, I am super glad that I dont live in that area. Its climbing people... No one is sleeping with your wife, its something we do for FUN!!!! (it has been fun lurking, though)


sweet! our so. AZ bickering is having the unexpected side effect of keeping the crowds away! keep laying into each other, guys! i will buy everyone here slinging insults a beer when i can.

EDIT
oh, and i feel like i should help out too. cota, you're a poopy head.

i know it's not much, but i need to take every opportunity i can to give back to the community that has given me so much.


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By Mike Dudley
From Tucson
Jul 15, 2009
Crux of Picante Sauce - Picante Roof

"cota, you're a poopy head"

I second that one.


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By Mike Diesen
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 15, 2009

You're all F'n morons with small penises.


Where do I pickup my beer?


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By Geir Hundal
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 15, 2009
-

jon - freakin' hilarious!

EDIT: Mike, when did you see my penis???!!! Dammit!

EDIT #2: (on a serious note). Well said, Eric.


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By Mike Dudley
From Tucson
Jul 15, 2009
Crux of Picante Sauce - Picante Roof

Lets just turn this thread into the Jon Ruland is a funny man thread and forget about this crap.

By the way Jon, have not climbed with you in like a year. Would love to climb again now that I can actually climb lol. Spending the summer up in Las Vegas climbing Red Rocks every night after work. Would love to climb when I get back. Let me know.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 15, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Mike Diesen wrote:
You're all F'n morons with small penises. Where do I pickup my beer?


nice, nice. 8/10 because it covers everyone in the thread and involves penis size. i'll buy you one after we get back from a good day climbing on lemmon or in the stronghold.

Mike Dudley wrote:
By the way Jon, have not climbed with you in like a year. Would love to climb again now that I can actually climb lol. Spending the summer up in Las Vegas climbing Red Rocks every night after work. Would love to climb when I get back. Let me know.


for sure! i might be heading up to red rock this fall--or if you come back to tucson before then send me a PM, would love to climb with you again.


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By Mike Dudley
From Tucson
Jul 15, 2009
Crux of Picante Sauce - Picante Roof

What are you planning on climbing in Red Rocks? Did you ever get out to climb Epi?


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 15, 2009
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

Mike Dudley wrote:
What are you planning on climbing in Red Rocks? Did you ever get out to climb Epi?


PM sent


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By The Boodge
From Tucson, Az
Jul 15, 2009
Ancient wall art

I DON'T KNOW WHAT WE'RE YELLING ABOUT!!! LOUD NOISES!!


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By Forest Hill
From Denver, CO
Jul 15, 2009
Forest on the first ascent

Screw this. I'm moving to Boulder. They never have bolt wars there!


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