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Lady Boys 

5.10+

   

FA: Vince Bates & Eric Deschamps
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 134 page views

Submitted By: Eric D on Aug 10, 2009


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Description 

Lady boys is full of surprises. From the anchor of Valley Girls, climb up and right to a hand crack in the obvious dihedral to the ledge. Take the right crack of the two cracks to another small ledge. If you have a #3 and #4 left, keep going. Otherwise stop your pitch here and anchor with 2 .75s and a nut; you'll then do a short second pitch.


Location 

Starts at the top of the route Valley Girls. To descend, walk to and rap King Snake.
It's questionable whether or not you can rap King Snake with one 60m. We swung over to the ledge left of King Snake where there is a middway anchor.


Protection 

A couple of micro-cams, a double set .5 to #2, single #3 and #4, and medium to large nuts. A second #3 and #4 will allow you to do this in one pitch instead of two.



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By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Aug 14, 2009

Eric, I think you meant to say that the route start at the top of Valley Girl (at the 'Location' entry)...