Jerimiah Gentry on The Judge (Photo by: Helen Padi...
Description
Amazing and obvious finger crack on a steep wall. Is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along this overhanging wall, and a few rest points.
The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, is 100 feet to the bolted anchors.
Location
Directly across the river from the bottom of the rap line into the canyon.
Protection
A good assortment of finger size cams (BD's from .3 to .75)... I would recommend AT LEAST triples of each. A BD .1
What an outstanding pitch! Bring lots of thin pro up to.75 camalot, including thin nuts for the start.
At the white ledge up high, the route traverses right a few moves, then goes up a crack system (5.10) to the anchors. The direct finish (straight up from the white ledge) is a variation that goes at 5.11a/b-ish to another anchor.
Ok, that is why I put ??? signs on it... I only heard sometime ago that RR did it but never found any confirmation... so I am changing it right now.. Thanks Paul!
Actually, it went like this: I climbed with a couple falls to where I believe the bolted anchor is now. Then Tim T. tried to lead the off width straight above. He didn't have enough wide gear so we traversed to the right and climbed some other wide cracks to the rim. Later, John flashed the first pitch and Ray lead the direct finish up the wide crack for the full meal deal. Very impressive performance from 2 amazing climbers. One more piece of trivia, this and King Snake were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall. As soon as we got there, Jim and Scott jumped on King Snake and Tim and I on Hanging Judge. Any one climb the 2nd pitch anymore?
RSS Feed
