This is an "old-school" serious route. The first pitch climbs 25-30 feet of overhanging, unprotected rock to the first gear placement, and ends in a saddle about 40 feet higher at an old 2-bolt belay. The second pitch climbs an arete similar to that on the Razors' Edge for about 60 feet to a large block. From here, one can either move right into a loose gully and to the top, 40 feet 5.6, or swing left out onto a headwall and climb poorly protected 5.8 face to the top. A fixed rap anchor is found on the West side of the summit. One double/rope rappel gets you back down.
Location
The route is found around the back-left side of the Tower as viewed from the saddle between the Tower and the Hand.
Protection
The protection on this route is vary sparse! It is possible to place a few wires and medium cams on the second pitch. The first pitch is a virtual solo until the difficulty eases!
By Mike Diesen From: Sierra Vista, AZ Oct 12, 2009
Not as serious as the guide book suggests. Climb about 8 feet off the ground and there is a bomber tri-cam placement. About 5 feet further and place a bomber nut in a crack. After the ledge follow a nice crack that takes lots of pro to the top of the first belay. The second pitch felt a lot more serious and run out on old bolts and a few pieces. If you find a placement do not pass it up on this route. The rapel is probably closer to 175 feet I would suggest 2 60s not 50s. We thought a 70 would be enough and I ended up lowering my partner off to run back to the car for the other rope while I waited on the summit. Very fun and scary adventure. We combined it with the Razors Edge for a full scare-fest day. Perfect for October.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
