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The Hand
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Razor's Edge 

Razor's Edge 

5.6

   

FA: Bill Forrest, and ??? , 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Season: Fall through Spring
Views: 1,041 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 21, 2006


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Andrea Gordon on The Hand. Photo Todd Gordon


Description 

People who climb the Razor's Edge route sometimes don't even know that's it's name. More likely than not, they'll just say they climbed The Hand. This route is synonymous with the formation and probably accounts for 98%-plus of the ascents here.

1) Climb gully, stepping up and left at it's top to gain the top of a small buttress where you'll find a fixed anchor.

2) Climb up slope on the fin clipping bolts to gain Chicken Ledge at the top (fixed anchor). Lots of climbers try to cross the last very exposed bit of Chicken Ledge by walking. Give it a go!

3) Continue up the arete of the fin, clipping the occasional bolt, to the top. A short crack move will be found at the top. You might want a medium sized cam for that.

Descent: Rappel (double rope) down the southern side of the formation back to the ground off the south face.


Location 

Found on the Hand and basically climbs the eastern arete of the fin.

The route starts downhill on the southeastern corner in a gully between "The Thumb" and the main part of the fin.


Protection 

Light rack of mediums cams/nuts, quickdraws, two ropes.



Photos of Razor's Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Jimmy Purcell looking up halfway up the second pitch while I belay from Chicken Ledge...Notice the nice view on either side....

Jimmy Purcell looking up halfway up the second pit...

The Hand with the Razors Edge following the right side arete

BETA PHOTO: The Hand with the Razors Edge following the right ...

Notice the headwall on the Third Pitch above Chicken ledge...its really positive on the left side with handholds...Two good (?) bolts and 1 manky one...Backed up with a directional piece on the one ledge halfway up third pitch...

Notice the headwall on the Third Pitch above Chick...

Tell me more about this exposure you speak of...

Tell me more about this exposure you speak of...

Casey straddling the 2nd belay ledge.

Casey straddling the 2nd belay ledge.

Looking down the Razor's Edge on The Hand, Sup's, AZ

Looking down the Razor's Edge on The Hand, Sup's, ...

Start of the second pitch.

BETA PHOTO: Start of the second pitch.

The route with the most webbing wins.  :-)  This is the summit belay & rappel station.  From here it's a double-roped rappel back to the base.

BETA PHOTO: The route with the most webbing wins. :-) This i...

Kimberly Bailey on the "Edge"

Kimberly Bailey on the "Edge"

Jeff Mayhew stops for a pic while leading the second pitch!

Jeff Mayhew stops for a pic while leading the seco...


Comments on Razor's Edge Add Comment
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By Sam Prentice
From: davis, ca
Mar 15, 2009

Proud old school mini on a lesser formation. Worth doing once a year, but never again on a weekend.

This is a two pitch climb. Ascend the east ridge starting in an east facing class 4 gully. Pitch one ends at the obvious saddle belay with a shiny new 3/8" and two mank 1/4" rawls. The double rope rap descent is well protected.

By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jul 22, 2009

Fun climb, but some very shady rawls. For as many ascents as this route sees, a local with time/resources should look into replacing manky bolts. Rap anchors also questionable...