Looking up at the 3rd pitch of Queen Victoria, Sed...
Description
This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.
P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.
P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above.
P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.
Descent: Rappel 100 feet from summit to a pair of bolts on the edge of the limestone (this anchor is located to the northwest of where you climb the wide crack). Then rappel another 100+ feet to the base of the east side of the formation.
Protection
Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.
I think this is a great intro to Sedona Route, challenging climbing for the uninitiated and awesome summit. It most definitely can be rapped with one 60 meter rope, just be sure you have the middle marked. Also as far as the rack is concerened, most would do fine with a single set from around blue metolius to "old style, not C4" #4 Camalot (only needed on the second pitch, but having just done it without one I'd recommend not forgetting it!) Also to whomever is chalking up the route with ratings and other random grafitti, c'mon this is Sedona. Good luck and enjoy!
To avoid the pitch 2 OW climb straight up off the first belay and through a 5.7+ corner in the Limestone band. This ends at one of the rappel anchors. I would recommend climbing the OW pitch at least once though because it is fun.
Pitch 2 "OW" - After a few stemming moves, a #4 is helpful in the lower section, and a #5 is helpful in the upper section. We rapped on a 70m rope w/ plenty of rope left for each rap.
"Also to whomever is chalking up the route with ratings and other random grafitti, c'mon this is Sedona." I didn't see any grafitti.
#4 C4 a very good idea for pitch 2, #5 is unnecessary unless you have one burning a hole in your pocket. Or, unless you have 90$ burning a hole in your pocket and are looking for an excuse to buy a #5. You can get an at least marginal placement with a small cam (#2 C3 for example) making the #5 unnecessary, especially since the move it protects is not hard unless you are very short. Also, there is one bolt at the top of the second pitch on a huge ledge. Great climb!
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