Kenny's original topo that hung on the "new route ...
Description
Lost in Space climbs the tower which is 5-10 minutes east of Mars Attacks. The route begins on the Northwest corner of the tower. The first pitch is marked by a belay bolt. The first two pitches climb the western pointing "toe" of the tower. Pitches three and four are on the south face.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 Climb a system of cracks through the limestone band to a ledge. Make a gear anchor here. (1.5 - 2.5")
Pitch 2 - 5.7 A very short pitch. Step up, clip a bolt, mantle and run out the rope to the far side of a very large ledge to a hidden one bolt belay anchor. This anchor is located on the far side of the ledge and down a small drop off.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Climb up cracks for 20' then traverse right for approximately 40' to a two bolt belay.
Pitch 4 - 5.10- Climb straight up the hand to fist to off-width crack. Keep an eye out for face holds. (Best pitch on route!)
Location
Descent is by one double rope rappel off the north side of the tower. From here scramble down hill to your packs.
Protection
Double set of cams to 3.5" (i.e. BD .5 to 3) Singles 4" to 6" (BD 3.5 to 5) Half set stoppers
Just climbed this route the past weekend and had a blast. Ole Willie C. is correct the last pitch makes it all worth it. the first three are okay. Forgot the 4.5 and 5 and had to grovel a bit on the last pitch but survived unscathed. Seems like this would be a good continuation to the day if you climbed Mars Attacks, Big Corner and then walked over here. Also the first pitch is a bit tricky to find head way up the gully till you are just below the limestone band. Search the slabs about you for the belay bolt. Good luck.
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