BETA PHOTO: The Flip Wilson Route goes up the arete just above...
Description
Flip Wilson is a great mixed trad and sport route that ascends the southwestern arete of Courthouse Butte.
Pitch 1 (5.7) - Climb a corner above the start ledge which starts as unprotectable 5.4 progressing to 5.6 and a #2 camalot placement. When the corner steepens look up and right for a #3 camalot placement behind a boulder. At this point mantle out of the corner up and right then climb easy 5.5 slabs to a two bolt belay/rap station. (~100') Leave your trad gear here as it is all bolted climbing from here.
Pitch 2a (5.10c) - Start up and left past two bolts then move right into a corner. Climb up the corner past several additional bolts to a ramp which leads to the next belay ledge. About 8 clips total. (~100') From here a 200' rappel will take you back to the start ledge.
Pitch 2b - Move the belay up 15' to a belay bolt on a large ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.10a) - Fun face climbing past 12 bolts trending up and right to a two bolt rap station. (~120')
Descent - Two double rope raps down the route.
Location
Flip Wilson ascends the Southwest Arete of Courthouse Butte. Approach as if climbing one of the "South Bowl" routes as described by Greg. Once up the initial 4th class ledges trend left to a notch which is right on the southwestern arete. If you travel through this notch it will take you to the start for the Prosecutor. Up and right from this notch is the start ledge for Flip Wilson.
Protection
12 Draws 1 x 2 Camalot 1 x 3 Camalot A creative climber may find placements for smaller gear on the first pitch.
Photos of Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) Slideshow
Climbed this a few days ago after trudging for miles in search of a spire that seems to have vanished. Anyhow great winter route all in the sun. I agree with Will #2 and #3 are all you really need. You'd have to work to get anything else in. Belays are very comfy and the climbing, no harder than 10 but exciting none the less. Good route if you want to travel light or are short on time. 2 ropes to get off.
Just climbed this again, third time, makes for a great short day winter route, and had to upgrade it on my star rating. This climb is great, fun moves, good exposure, comfy belays and a cool summit. Really enjoyable route most definitely worth the hike, which is relatively easy and straight forward. Only down side is the two ropes, but not really a big detractor cause youre not carrying much else! Go climb it!
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