"Are you allright, do yo need a rescue?" came the ...
Description
Coyote Tower is an exceptional route with lots of good pitches. From the summit, the views are really cool as well and you'll be amazed at how high up you get. Start as described below.
P1) Climb up multi-bulge face (5.8) with bolts to a fixed anchor above. Then scramble up to the base of the second pitch up and left.
P2) Crux pitch. There are a couple stiff spots on this pitch, but basically climb in crack system left of a buttress, with an overhanging tight-hands crack at the top to a fixed belay.
P3) Climb up into slot behind the top of the buttress and tunnel right behind it until you can exit to the right. A couple of face moves up and further right will put you on top of the limestone layer and a fixed anchor. Short pitch.
P4) Climb crack above and right of the anchor to good shelf with fixed anchors.
P5) Fingercrack in corner, good layback crack. Then short offwidth section leading to "dirt clod" (be careful not to damage this!). Surmount the dirt clod and climb up to a ledge in corner with anchors.
P6) Climb up nice steep finger crack (5.9) to flat summit. I found the moves right at the top to be the crux on this one.
Descent: Since I climbed this route, the rappels have been moved. Call the Flag gym to see if they have updated info.
Location
Coyote Tower is a long slim tower formation that clings to the southeast corner of Courthouse Butte. To reach the start of the route, you have to hike below the tower on the flats until you're just past it and then scramble up ledges and slabs to reach the start atop a rounded buttress.
Protection
Standard rack, Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot size. Bolts will be found on the first two pitches.
This was a great climb. I decked at the third vertical wall on the first pitch and fractured my heel and still finished the climb. The (fifth?) dihedral pitch was so clean and nice! Although the third - fourth pitch are loose and a little disconcerting, this is a top Sedona offering.
The hike out (one-legged hop) was pure hell. My heel still hurts at times (almost 2 years after now).
With a 70m rope this route can be done in 4 pitches, not including the optional jump-across pitch. Link pitches 2 & 3 (you get some rope drag during the 3rd pitch, but it is mostly 4th class anyway), then pitches 4 & 5 link very nicely.
The optional jump-across pitch at the end is fun to do once, but it is runout on mostly crappy rock then is still a bit of a hike (in climbing shoes) to the top. Rap back to the top of the tower off tree slings.
Climbed the route again for the third time on Nov 22. One of the safer and more classic lines in Sedona, and pitch two, crux pitch has to be one of the better sandstone pitches in AZ. Positioning on final pitch is phenomenal. A couple "muddy" spots but excellent quality overall. Second to last pitch if done as topo explains, has some loose blocks just above start and plugging good gear in the dihedral is crucial just off the belay... in my opinion the only slightly dicey moves of the route are here, other than easy but runout start on pitch one.
Takes great gear and has some bolts for supplemental protection. As of 4/19/09 the route has excellent belay anchors throughout. Rock was solid with the exception of the "tunnel" on pitch 3 that had a bunch of loose rock that you basically scramble over, and a loose block on pitch 4. For more info take a look at the route and approach topo/drawings uploaded in the photos section. Be safe, have fun!
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.10+
This climb is a lot of fun, and is pretty burly throughout!
One thing to watch out for: the first pitch has two ledges that are likely to tweak an ankle in the event of a fall. Make sure you're very attentive on belay!
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