Chris in the chimney formed by the pillar and the ...
Description
Getting to the base of the route is an uphill march: from shuttle stop 7 walk back down canyon 100yds to a gully heading uphill for 200yds til it connects with the sabino trail. Travel uphill @ 1/2 mile to the Phoneline trail, turn right til you get to the Hiker's Gully @ 100yds and walk up it til you get level with the Kor Wall's base. Walk left to the rocky base and drop your packs. Climb 3rd/4th class up to the left side of the pillar @ 300' and set your belay inside the chimney. Climb chimney, work your way to the edge of it up high and then work back inside to top of pillar. Belay on slung block. Pitch 2 goes up @ 10-15' then traverses left on incipient cracks for 40-50', trending down on easier ground to the main crack. Climb a bit higher to set belay. Pitch 3 goes up small cracks on great rock, stay right of dihedral visible above. Stay right on good crack with piton to pass crux bulge then traverse left when level with start of dihedral to set a belay. Pitch 4 goes up remaining dihedral and wanders right to ledge going directly right under a roof. Go around corner to set belay on ledge where it ends. Pitch 5 goes up overhung finger crack with great rock and holds to top. Walk north to descend Hiker's Gully to your packs.
Protection
standard rack of single cams, double set of nuts, 15 runners; I brought a #5 camalot and used it on the chimney pitch as recommended but didn't really need it. An old hex fixed on start of pitch 2, one piton on crux in pitch 3 and long fixed slings on top of the pillar.
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