BETA PHOTO: Starts in obvious right-slanting weakness.
Description
1. Climb ramp up right and negotiate short chimney, exiting right at top. Turn small bulge at crack and belay above at small stance. (5.9 90 ft.) 2. Up crack then diagonal left on easy ledges until a break in the bulge allows gear placements. Turn bulge here, continuing up easy ground to huge ledge up and right. More pro available in crack system far left before ledge but you’ll probably want to back clean to avoid drag. (5.9 140 ft.) 3. Easy climbing up right side of chimney then slightly right to sloping ledge with trees. (5.5 120 ft.) 4. Straight up to huge ledge. Engage right diagonalling crack leading to final chimney to top. (5.8+ 190 ft.)
Descent: Scramble down long gully to left with several sections of steep 4th classing or rap “Bombs Away” at the other end of the wall.
Location
Just right of the huge descent gully at the left side of the rock is a 3rd class ramp heading up and right. Scramble up this to a large blocky ledge area with trees at the base of a 5th class ramp.
Protection
"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. Smaller tri-cams are handy.
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