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El Throatchoker Grande 

5.9-

   

FA: Marcy, Geir & Doso
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 160 feet
Views: 273 page views

Submitted By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009


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Marcy on the FA of El Throatchoker Grande, just af...


Description 

Start just left of the center of the face near two small pockets at head height. Using the pockets pull up to a small ledge. Work to a prominent vertical crack, then step left into a crack leading into a “pod” (shallow cave). Stem up the pod and exit to the right into a long, fun crack that widens as you go up. At the end of the wide crack follow discontinuous cracks to the top.

Desent - 1 double rope rappel from Blueberry Lizards.


Location 

See Lunchbox overview map


Protection 

1/2" to #5 Camalot; doubles of #2 through #5 Camalot are nice.



Photos of El Throatchoker Grande Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Ruland effortlessly cruising the opening moves of El Throatchoker Grande

Jon Ruland effortlessly cruising the opening moves...

Arjun heading heading toward the pod on El Throatchoker Grande

Arjun heading heading toward the pod on El Throatc...

Jeff in the wide part of El Throaty, I'm on top, Hanna on Blueberry, photo by Erin

Jeff in the wide part of El Throaty, I'm on top, H...


Comments on El Throatchoker Grande Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9-

there's still plenty of loose stuff on this one, but once that is gone this climb will almost certainly be a 4-star classic. it's got everything a trad climber could want at the grade.

By Marcy
Nov 2, 2009

Climbed this route twice this past w/e. It is cleaning up nicely.

By David Arthur Sampson
From: Tempe, Az
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.8+

I think that this climb has cleaned up nicely. Nice long climb with varied moves and a short crux; this climb is a must do.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AX
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.9-

Climbed it with Marcy and agree that this is a delightful route. Love the diversity and the length of the route and it has indeed cleaned up nicely. My favorite in LDE so far ... Thanks for another great route Marcy and Geir!!

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2009

Thanks, Arjun! Glad you liked it! Marcy did this FA onsight and was very excited that it went entirely on gear. We didn't know exactly what to expect with that huge wide crack up there, so Marcy carried up a world of big gear to #6. The crux on Marcy's FA was probably the opening moves with 20 pounds of gear dangling off her!

By Marcy
Nov 5, 2009

And the wide crack is in the upper portion of the climb...so you don't get to unload the big stuff right away. Turned out #6 is not needed, can get by nicely with a #4.5 and #5.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.9

The move right off the ground is probably 5.9, everything else felt like 5.8. I can't comment on the offwidth cause I only made one real offwidth move at the bottom just to get a piece in the back.

You can shove yourself in the offwidth the whole way, but I find that really hard to do when there's so many face holds you can use to avoid it :-)

Fun route!

By roman d
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.9-

Fun line! I think I used doubles to #2 camalot and singles of #3, #4, and #5 (C4).