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Lower Devil's Canyon

Submitted By: Mike on Sep 18, 2006
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel
Views: 11,118 page views

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Looking across Lower Devil's Canyon at the Glitter...


Description 

Despite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach.


Getting There 

Take the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Devil's Canyon:
Three Amigos   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch   Glitter Box Area
Smokin' The Toad   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Hackberry Creek
El Throatchoker Grande   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Going Out Of Chicken Sale   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
Blueberry Lizards   5.9     Trad, 150 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Accelerated Climbology   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area
Dacite Conspiracy   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Hackberry Creek
The Last Chicken   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
Faith, Hope & Jeep   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
The Shmotem Pole   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Microskunks with Cholla Coats   5.10b     Trad, 140 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
Centipede Corner   5.10c     Trad, 110 feet   Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
The Totem Pole   5.10c/d     Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet   Glitter Box Area
Browse More Classics in Lower Devil's Canyon

Featured Route For Lower Devil's Canyon
Marcy on the FA of El Throatchoker Grande, just after exiting the pod. Photo by Geir.

El Throatchoker Grande 5.9-  AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : ... : The Lunchbox
Start just left of the center of the face near two small pockets at head height. Using the pockets pull up to a small ledge. Work to a prominent vertical crack, then step left into a crack leading into a “pod” (shallow cave). Stem up the pod and exit to the right into a long, fun crack that widens as you go up. At the end of the wide crack follow discontinuous cracks to the top.Desent - 1 double rope rappel from Blueberry Lizards. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Lower Devil's Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Hackberry Creek

Hackberry Creek

Commonly seen on the drive to LD

Commonly seen on the drive to LD

green-throated kettle owl

green-throated kettle owl

This used to be one of the worst parts of the road to Lower Devil's Canyon. It'll only stay this way until the next rain or the Jeep or Toyota 4x4 groups come out, whichever comes first :)

This used to be one of the worst parts of the road...

View of Lower Devils from LDE

View of Lower Devils from LDE


Comments on Lower Devil's Canyon Add Comment
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By Marcy
Oct 3, 2009
CONDITION REPORT 

The road out to Lower Devil's Canyon has been graded between the big hill and the Hackberry parking pullout and is now passable by passenger cars!!! Obviously, this will change with rain and use, therefore, use your own judgement when driving in. The last section of road between the Hackberry pullout and the road termination is improved but still requires high clearance 4wd.

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2009

Lower Devil's Canyon has some of the best climbing in the Phoenix area and should not be missed! Driving time to this area is about an hour, and the approach from the 2WD parking area is only about 30 minutes. For those with 4WD, you can park right next to it.

For those of you who have Google Earth, I put together a map showing the road in to LD along with the 2WD and 4WD parking spots.

The google earth file can be downloaded from http://www.geir.com/googleearth/phoenix/

Once in this file, simply click on the file you want and select "open" from the window that appears. Follow the prompts from there and the road will display in Google Earth on your computer.

It works well, but I'm still learning to streamline the process of downloading the file so bear with me as I learn. :)


Google Earth can be downloaded for free at http://www.googleearth.com

By Marcy
3 days ago

Please help keep LD clean and PACK OUT YOUR TRASH, INCLUDING TP.

please don't do this
please don't do this
Submitted By: Marcy on Nov 25, 2009

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
9 hours ago

That goes for all areas. Please, folks, burn your TP or pack it out. Few things are as disgusting as soiled TP laying all over the place.

By Marcy
7 hours ago

peeing in swimming pools is also pretty disgusting