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Mutiny on the Bounty 

5.11+

   

FA: Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson, Tim Coats
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,005 page views

Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Feb 23, 2007


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The ultra-steep, ultra-thin, ultra-powerful crux o...


Description 

One of the classic forks tips cracks. Start just right of the Prow OW, at a thin crack in broken rock. Climb this finger crack (5.10+) to a ledge. Move to the left side of the ledge, then up the clean steep tips crack in a tight stemming or layback corner. Eats up green Aliens/.3 Camalots. Some people move left into a slightly wider (yellow Alien?) splitter crack. 5.11+ either way.


Location 

Just right of the OW at the base of the prow at a thin crack in chunky rock.


Protection 

2 each to #1 Camalot, 1 #2 Camalot, with 4 or 5 green Alien size. I place 4, but 5 might be nice for an onsight attempt.



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By chuck claude
May 10, 2007

As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red)

By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 22, 2008

Woops, looked a little closer, deleted my last comment.

The line labeled '20' in the Falcon Guide is indeed in the wrong place. From the ledge Mutiny traverses off left and goes up the tips corner. The seam that goes straight up where the book shows Mutiny is very hard, probably 5.12ish, harder than Sail Away I thought. Not sure if it's been led or not. Sail Away goes up from the right side of the ledge.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.12-

I think the start of this climb (from the ledge) is HARD! It seems made for those with smaller fingers. After this, the left crack seems slightly easier to me, good finger locks, then back to the right crack for an easier finish.

By Paul Davidson
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11+

Left crack then right crack ?
All I remember is a pretty clean continous corner.
Definetely smalls tips help for the first 20-30 feet.
Get starting gear, go up get one or two placements higher, come down, shake out and start running for it. Stop once (maybe twice) and get something in and the go for the bucket stem ! Once you hit the stem, it's in the bag. Not that it's a give away above that but if you can get there, you can finish. (assuming you're not totaly blown.)

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.12-

Yes Paul, right crack, then left crack, then back to the right crack, all in the corner. Scroll up and read the route description. My friends with small fingers generally stay in the (smaller) right crack.

I agree that once you get the nice stem it gets much easier.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jul 17, 2009

Am I the only one who bails left into the locker finger crack and just stays there?

By Dustin Wildermuth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 14, 2009

I think it depends on if you lay the thing back or stem weather you use the left crack. If laying back good luck getting out of it before the "bucket stem", and once your there you don't need the left crack. This thing is sick!!