Paul Davidson leads the crux of Goldfinger on the ...
Description
There are two starts , the recommended is to the left through an easy tight handcrack until you are level with a rounded ledge on the right (about 25ft, traverse right.
Second start is to the right, up through broken poorly protected ground until reaching the ledge directly.
From the ledge stem through the perfect right facing stem box with the aid of the crack out to the right. Pull up onto the second ledge, and reach right for the slightly overhanging flared hands for a short crux before easier ground to the top.
Location
about 20ft to the right of East of Eden just below a right facing stem box leading to a spacious ledge.
Protection
0.4 microcamalots (C4's) to red (1.0) camalot (and very heavy- 3 each in 0.5 to 0.75 camalots) with a yellow or blue (2.0 or 3.0) optional for a single placement. The upper crack from the second ledge can be protected with either a large nut or a larger cam.
A true Forks classic which commands respect, at least just about every single damn time I have done the thing. Stunning, slightly intimidating, and the direct start will put some knots in your gut if on lead.
I remember thinking the direct start might protect ok with multiple black aliens. Only had 1 and I left it behind way too early, making the start basically a solo. But as I was standing there quaking I remember thinking it would take some tiny gear. Could be wrong, it's been a while. Funny thing is I led the direct start because my only other time on the route I had followed the traverse start and I thought it would be a hard and scary lead.
First ascent Larry and Tim Coats, late 70's, yarding off a nut to exit the ledge. Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley managed that move free on the second ascent.
By Greg DeMatteo From: Flagstaff, Az Mar 20, 2008 rating: 5.11
I've done both starts now on lead. I think the direct start is preferable and only a tad bit scarier than traversing in from the left. If you do the direct start then a single set of cams to #2 Camelot will suffice. If traversing in from the left, you need to bring doubles in 0.5 and 0.75 Camelots. After the start lameness is negociated, the route is top quality with killer stemming to steep strenuous crack climbing. Definitely a classic.
I've never done the direct start but found the transverse in the from left to be a bit spooky. The Crux move up high of the ledge it very well protected with a beefy nut. I love how this route goes from delicate to powerful. Classic.
Great route! Love the stemming section and the move off the ledge was a blast as an onsight. Leaving the ledge I didn't know what I was getting into and once there I had to hang on and go. I am so glad I have cams.
i thought the crux was lower than folks suggest- the stembox was far more sustained than the upper crack- although the 'stepping into the void' factor definitely ups the excitement factor!
be careful on that traverse- a good #2 camalot and a long runner mitigates it somewhat, but i thought it was pretty insecure and harder than i expected.
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