Scott Baxter leading on the 1st(?) ascent of East ...
Description
East of Eden is one of the Forks 5.10 classics.
It's long, steep and just hard enough to be lots of fun. Start by face climbing up blocky rock to get into the steep crack system. Continue up to a section where fingers in the corner leads to a sort of "V" formed by tight hands size cracks. This is the business. Get through this and it's easier to the rim.
IMHO, this is one of the MUST DO routes at the Forks.
Location
Located right below the Ansel Adams tree, a gnarled juniper tree perched right on the canyon rim. A sort of ramp leads down to the rim below the west side of the tree and that's the top of the route. You can establish a rap off a large clean pine straight above this point and about 35 feet back from the rim.
Protection
Good assortment of nuts and cams from small up to #2 Camalot. Take extras between #0.5 and #1 Camalot size.
With all due respect to the venerable first ascensionists and based on my experience, this route is closer to 5.11 than 5.9. It's not 5.11 or 5.9. By today's standards, calling East of Eden 5.9 would be a sandbag (not that there's anything wrong with that).
By Greg DeMatteo From: Flagstaff, Az Oct 22, 2008 rating: 5.10+
5.9+ man that's classic. I found it to be a pretty stiff 5.10 personally. In any case a great, long route with full value climbing.
By talkinrocks From: Boulder/Nederland May 29, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d
Felt awfully hard for a 5.10-, but I am out of shape. Super fun and hard at the crux. Too thin for comfortable jams.
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