They say they keep their climbing areas underground in Flagstaff. Paradise Forks (aka The Forks) is one of those areas. The climbing is found in the upper end of Sycamore Canyon where the walls of the Y-shaped canyon are lined with tall bullet-hard basalt columns. This yields awesome crack lines between and in the columns and some of the best and hardest cracks in Arizona. For a leading party, the usual procedure is to bring a rap line, rig it to a tree, rap in, climb out.
Routes at Paradise Forks are largely in the upper side of the ratings, with only a couple of 5.8's and a few 5.9s, but lots of 10's on up. Since this is a canyon, toproping the harder lines is also possible if you're not quite up to the lead.
This is a beautiful area, please help to keep it that way!
Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!!!
Getting There
Paradise Forks is just southeast of the town of Williams Arizona, just off Interstate 40. From Flagstaff, drive west until you get to the Garland Prarie Exit, then drive south following the signs for White Horse Lake. There is a sign marking the turnoff for the parking area (think it says "waterfall trail") a couple miles before the lake.
Davidson Dihedral is a clean fingers and off-fingers left-facing book that will challenge those forearms. Supposedly, the route received it's name before it was climbed, because local climbers thought that Paul Davidson was the only one who could lead it. He wanted to call it "Pillowing", but as history has shown, no dice.I've heard lots of hard-charging climbers suggesting a lower rating for this route after a few toprope ascents. It should be r...[more]
Hi all. For those of you who don't know me my name is Will Cobb and I am the Access Fund Regional Coordinator for Northern Arizona. Chris Tatum from Vertical Relief Climbing Gym let me know about an active Turkey Vulture nest situated on the ledge at the top of T.L. Bush earlier this week. With help and feedback from the kind folks of the NACC we felt that a voluntary closure of the Gold Wall was in order. I have since learned that Turkey Vultures are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and that disturbing the nest is a lawful offense.
Local climbers will be checking on the nest frequently from the far side of the canyon in order to minimize disturbance. Once it has been determined that the nest is abandon for the season the closure will be discontinued.
I believe that this is a great opportunity for climbers to show the Forest Service that we are capable of self-policing and are dedicated to environmental friendly action. Please avoid the Gold Wall until it is determined that the birds are finished with the nest.
Paradise Forks
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