11:11 (obviously the name has nothing to do with the rating) climbs the overhanging S-shaped crack just right of Double Clutching and left of Chronic.
Head up to a low roof, and pull gingerly past this (some hollow-sounding flakes) to the right, and then follow a cool seam and corner up to a stance. This is just left of the business (the bottom of the S-crack). Place a blind cam if possible and then crank on some good locks to get up into the crack which gradually widens to perfect hands. Mantle onto the top of the column to a lower-off.
This is a great, entirely gear-protected route. The anchor currently consists of two fixed wires and a bolt, all equipped for lowering. I hope to put in a second anchor bolt ASAP (I only had a hand drill at the time of the FA and that basalt is ruthlessly implacable).
Protection
Pro to 3", extra tips and small fingers pieces. Wires. A 60m rope *might* make it down but use a 70 to be sure.
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