90ft of mostly finger jamming. the off-width at the top is "pleasantly easier"
Location
Located in the approach drainage to Book of Friends. Continue up til just before it becomes a slot canyon. then look for the South facing "S" shaped finger splitter.
Protection
Quadruple set of TCU's, nuts useful too, plus Double set to #3.5Camalot, Rap from a bolt and fixed piece below the big roof.
This route goes free at 12+ F.A. Rodney Blakemore, and is called Synesthesia as a free climb. FYI the first 40' make a great 11a, and has a lowering station.
Just redpointed this as a freeclimb today. I agree with the 12+ rating.
This is an excellent pitch requiring skill in different size jamming, faceclimbing, small pro and staying cool. It protects very well.
A double set of cams to green Camelot and singles to blue Camelot should suffice. I used the blue on the first pitch at the traverse move. The upper OW can be protected by a red or gold Camelot just placed a little farther back, in case you don't want to drag a large cam up.
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