BETA PHOTO: La Diosa climbs up the green face, enjoy. Follow ...
Description
Very likely the most visually pleasing route at W. Elden with great moves with good exposure. Greg P. claims it as the best route he's climbed at this area. Gear with one bolt, starts just left of Flameout. Climb up the rolling slab, protecting the .75 crack and then through the OW and slabby face to large ledge system. The real business comes right off the ledge, be sure to find the tricky #1 camalot before making the moves to the bolt, steep balancey climbing on big holds through one bolt, pulling up to a thin crack that takes small cams. Feels bolder than it really is. Up to small perch for one last small cam and then pull on the big rail all the way to the top. For the true experience stay on the steep face all the way to the tippy top.
Location
Just left of Flameout. Bright green lichen face. Rap the route.
Protection
This is probably more than you need, but..., the key pieces are the micros, and .4 or .5 camalot for the placement. Cams from Micros to #3, doubles in .75 and #1? Slings and a QD yippee.
Add CommentComments on La Diosa (AKA Hacksaw Granny Gaper)
Just a note for the purists, while it wasn't bolted on lead it was done by hand, and when you climb it I hope you agree that the bolt is just high enough to make you gulp. Enjoy.
By Will Cobb From: Flagstaff, AZ Nov 7, 2007 rating: 5.10
This route is by far the best 5.10 at West Elden. Every move on the headwall is just awesome. Great exposure and great climbing. This route is definitly goddess worthy.
After the bolt I placed a Blue Metolius TCU, then a Purple Metolius TCU. At the small stance look for a green Camalot placement in a pod.
Hard to tell without being there, but this looks suspiciously like Omega Z, I route done by Jim Haisley and me somewhere around 1980. I recall it being a testy 5.10 lead. Hard nutting, run out, a Grossman style classic.
Someday when I'm back at WE I'll see if I can figure out if it's the same line.
Hey Paul, thanks for the heads up, if it is the same line I apologize for dropping a bolt in it. I didn't see anything listed in that area in Tims book. Regardless its a pretty stellar climb.
Looks similar but hard to say. I do recall the route wandering in a Z fashion. If it's the same line, the bolt would probably allow a direct start where we might have been climbing in from the left.
I recall the upper stuff being run out, as in work the moves out before committing. Someday I'll try and check it out.
Downtown
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