Long moderate with some fun climbing on knobs and the third pitch has some great exposure. Never done bottom to top on lead John and Scott stole the FA yesterday in record time.
Location
Drop down the west side of the Fortress. As you descend you will find a tower as the cliff base swings to the west. Scramble up gully between the tower and the main wall to the small saddle. 1) From saddle follow the bolts up the face to the right and belay on top of giant rounded flake. 2) Step across and climb more knobs to easy ground and belay below headwall left of crack/corner. Move left then up face as it eases look for a bolt on the left that protects easy moves up short headwall. Work your way around bushes to a big flat ledge with a single bolt. 4) Step across then work left to bolts leading up face. Single blot belay where you can still look down at your partner. At the start if you go straight up the weaknesses then step right on to bolted face you will have a long single 10- pitch that will take you to the top of second pitch of the described route.
Too steal the FA from a fellow injured climber. Is this what the world is coming to??? After all I've done for the local climbing community. I don't get no respect, not respect at all.... and this, this was the that one that would have put finally made me a contender...
Hey Jim, I thought I had convinced you to follow my lead and be a pretender. It is a lot easier and you will save that elbow for more important things like.......... fishing.
this is not a criticism: what is the thought behind the single bolt belays? can you back them up with gear near by? 2nd bolts to be added later? just a question for the FA team.
Hey Matt, the single bolts are because you are on a big ledge and there is a lot of friction between your butt and the rock. Starting the next pitch this doesn't really apply but you are even with the belayer about the time you clip the first bolt. At the top you can brace your feet against the rock so it would be hard to cause the bolt to be weighted. Feel free to add one at each location if you are so inclined. E.
4 pitches, not 3. 100', 100', 100', 60'. Only the last two pitches have single bolt belays. This seems quite safe. Gear or knob tie-offs needed for third pitch.
RSS Feed
