Follow the general directions given to get to The Fortress but don't go down the gully. Just as the trail starts down the east side of The Fortress follow the ledge around the left side and you will find a safety cable. This cable will lead to another cable that will guide you safely down to the climbs.
The Orifice is in the running for one of the mountains best sport climbs. This route has a huge exposure factor (laugh at your friends when they get needlessly scared), some great jug hauling and enough technical climbing to keep it interesting. A hard start leads to a large orifice which serves as a rest before the real climbing begins. Sign the guestbook while you rest in the hole. Figure out how to get out of the hole and then do the technical crux. Now jug haul for a ways and get ready for some final action before it mellows out for the finish. Follow the bolt line to the right near the top for the original (easier) finish or cut left (harder) for another letter grade worth of fun.
For a thrill and a reward after you redpoint take the big swing. After cleaning the route, climb up on TR to the second bolt or higher and take the swing out over the canyon below. Mandatory at least once. Make sure your belayer doesn't lower you too soon so you don't hit the ledge when swinging back in.
Let me apologize first to all of you that I have given beta to. It was not the best way to do it. The route is now only 11d, just kidding! Anyway, I used to do a kneebar to get out of the Orifice but today I watched a guy who is only 5.8 pull it off without coming out of the top of the hole. He made it look easy so I tried his beta. No need to be a contortionist any more. Really cool actually.
Thanks, Eric and Ted, for this incredibly burly, fun, unique route. Thanks, too, to Vince, Josie, Pete, and Marie for yelling me through the final crux! Great fun!
Nice send Geir! I was on the south wall of the Fortres when you had your victory YELL! It could be heard for a mile I'm sure. You met me up there that day. (Luke) Good Job!
HUGE congrats to Jon Ruland for his recent send on this classic climb!!!!! Jon gets the award for developing such strength so quickly this summer. Way to go Jon!!!!
Thanks Geir and Eric! Eric, I ended up sending it that last day I saw you up there. I told you all when you left that you were going to miss my send! lol Everyone had a great season at the Orifice wall this year! I look forward to it again next summer! For now it is Homestead season! See you all out there.
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