5.9/10+ This route has been set up so you can do the 5.9 crack then lower off from chains or go through the bolted 5.10 upper headwall and lower off. This splitter crack starts on the right side of the formation now being called The Griddle. It is around the corner and can't be seen when looking at the wall itself. A short slightly grungy section leads to a ledge. A few dihedral moves get you to about 25 feet of great finger crack. If you climb past the first chains you will be on the 5.10 upper headwall.
Protection
Mostly finger sized stoppers and cams although a big cam will give you some peace of mind getting to the first ledge.
English Breakfast: Is the perfect introduction to 5.9 trad climbing.It may be short,but it has "Star Quality" crack climbing that is well protected and also make's a great TR.If the approach was twice as far,I'd still hike up to do this climb alone.Thank's to Eric and Jim for putting this climb up!
The bottom half of the route felt very easy for 5.9 (compared to say, any of the 9's on Chimney Rock, or Forest Lawn in Cochise) so I'd give it an 8 because of one move down low. The gear is straight-forward and is small to medium. Biggest piece I used was a .4 camalot. If this crack was 100 feet long it would be classic anywhere.
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