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Warm and Free 

Warm and Free 

5.10- PG13

   

FA: Mike McEwan, Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 250 feet
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Views: 256 page views

Submitted By: Steve Pulver on Jul 1, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Like with all routes I've done at the Reef, I wouldn't have objected to another bolt. The person that goes up there with the drill can put it 10 feet above the last bolt on the final pitch.

We tried to do the direct start, then we (meaning I) bailed, out to the muddy dihedral on the left. This is not recommended.


Location 

We descended the main gully, then bushwhacked around to the base. You'll see a large ledge that makes an easy traverse to the start.


Protection 

I don't remember using any nuts on this. Probably doubles of .3 up to #3 Camalot.



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By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 1, 2008

Please don't even talk about adding bolts to established classics. Warm and Free is considered a mellow, low-stress route by Reef standards.

By John Peterson
Jul 1, 2008

I can't imagine where W&F would need another bolt. It protects just fine.

If you want to add bolts go to Shanashee :-) :-) :-)

By Eric Rhicard
Jul 1, 2008

Adding bolts to Rapture is the stupidest thing I have heard in a week and I have been reading the Forum Sport Climbing History. Adding bolts to Shanashee is more so. If you don't want to take step it up set up a TR and be amazed at what can be done with good slab technique and a strong head. If you don't have the head don't lead it but don't even think about bolting classics down to your level. This is pathetic. If you really want to bolt things I would be happy to have your help. There are tons of lines just waiting to be bolted so you can get up them.

Sincerely, Jbaks shorter, meaner twin brother.

By rickd
Jul 1, 2008

ehh, I just threw up a little in my mouth.

Shanashee bolts.

diaf.

By John Peterson
Jul 1, 2008

You know, I DID put a smiley next to my comment about Shanashee!

That was the season I was climbing with Tom Hilbert - he would lead absolutely anything. Did Two for a Peso before the chicken bolts got added there. Not that I led it though ...

By Eric Rhicard
Jul 2, 2008

I wondered what those things were. Is that a sign that I never text message anyone. Hell, I just figured out what LOL and IMHO mean. TFAP was pretty dicey back then.

By Braxton Norwood
From: Tucson
Jul 3, 2008

I doubt Steve was serious about adding bolts.

Hey Eric, here's a great site for you: http://www.netlingo.com/top50text.cfm. It has all the hip lingo that us young people use.

I disagree with #48, though. It's supposed to be White Trash Female.

By Eric Rhicard
Jul 3, 2008

Hey Braxton, I will study that until I have it memorized. I did not see POS. I see that a lot when people describe routes I have done. I assume it means they had a positive experience.

By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 4, 2008

Was out there today for some holiday climbing that does not involve:

1. Falling onto a pad.

2. Following a line of very closely placed steel, or

3. Grabbing artificial holds.

Great Climb!! No need for added bolts.

By Eric Rhicard
Jul 7, 2008

Way to go Luke for not getting involved in 1,2, or 3.