Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
North Fin
Show routes:
Select route...
5 O'Clock Shadow 
Agatha Christie (Direct) 
Air Monsters 
Ben There, Dun That 
Billionaire Boys Club 
Close Shave 
Edge of Da-light, The 
Genevive 
Hai Karate 
Histoplasmosis 
Killer Whale 
Nancy's Crack 
Nancy's Thumb Tower (Regular Route) 
Nang 
Skin Bracer 
Slippery When Wet 
Writer's Cramp 

Slippery When Wet 

5.7

   

FA: Merle Wheeler, Mark Axen
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 130 feet
Views: 2,171 page views

Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Sep 2, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Looking up from the base of SWW. Climbers are jus...


Description 

'Slippery When Wet' starts up a series intermittent flaring cracks near the south end of north fin. It is down the slope from 'Agatha Christie' and Nancy's Thumb.

Pitch 1: Climb delicate crux moves up starting cracks and through hanging blocks. From big chopper flake, continue up face just left of arete and clip one bolt. From bolt, step up around corner to the right. Traverse right on scant protection, up to reach another large ledge with two bolt belay.

Pitch 2: Exit belay ledge up and right to prominent corner. Climb the obvious corner to easier finish. Top out near large pine. Bring either gear or long slings to construct a belay on top.

To walk off, scramble north through brush toward Nancy's Thumb. Take care not to fall to your death on the talus to the west.


Protection 

60m rope, Standard rack. Bring single and double length runners for extensions and possible tree-belay.



Photos of Slippery When Wet Slideshow Add Photo
Rev. Robert Mcleod topping out on the 2nd pitch,with the Chessman and the Pumphouse in the back ground.

Rev. Robert Mcleod topping out on the 2nd pitch,wi...


Comments on Slippery When Wet Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 27, 2008
By Almonzo
Jan 28, 2003

This is a great climb! We combined the first and second pitches (at least, as they are described above - other sources only call this a 2 pitch climb) and used a 50m rope, which worked just fine. The crux is down near the bottom of the first pitch and is an awkward chimney sort of move. This can be bypassed by walking around and up to the the left of the climb, which allows you to start at the first belay described above.

By Wes Turner
From: az
May 16, 2004
rating: 5.9

slippery when wet is a 2 PITCH CLIMBP1: climb delicate face moves up through hanging blocks ..up buttress and right to solid chain anchors.P2: climb up crack system to top to a belay from solid tree.yes you could combine the 2 pitches for sure with a 60M ( 50M seems too short) rope but the line for P1 and the line for P2 are far apart and the drag would be horrendous. plus on top of P1 you have an incredible belay ledge where you can 2nd up your follower and check out Tucson from one of the best belays on the mountain.

By Wes Turner
From: az
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.9

I'm gonna do this again.....where are you from and what are you thinkning giving this route 1 star!!?? Anyone climbing on mt. lemmon and interested in a classic climb do this...3 stars all the way...

By Wes Turner
From: az
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.9

the 5.9 rating is obviously a typo.7

By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 11, 2004
rating: 5.7+

I can't think of any 5.7's on Mt Lemmon that really deserve 3 stars (well maybe George's Buttress does). Slippery When Wet is one of the most overrated routes on the mountain (Black Quacker is another, probably an even more overrated 5.7). )

By Wes Turner
From: az
Aug 11, 2004
rating: 5.9

Some of you guys really don't have a clue...

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Aug 11, 2004
rating: 5.7

It's got a great belay ledge, a beautiful dihedral, and if you go left instead of right when you finish the chimney at the top, the last belay is all gear with a fantastic view. This has got to be one of the best climbs I know to take someone on their first multipitch climb. What more could you want?

By Bobby Hanson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 2, 2005
rating: 5.7+

The direct start is pretty stiff 5.7 -- of course, it was wet when I did it. This route is definitely three stars!

By Jim Thompson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 31, 2006
rating: 5.7+ PG13

I've lead this route twice, and both times my second (two different individuals) had trouble with the traverse over to the first belay anchors. A large cam (equiv to a #3 or #4 camalot) can protect the traverse. Otherwise a scary pendulum fall is possible for a second climbing at their ability level.

By jbaker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.6

This climb is a classic due to AGE and position. For a 5.6 (that's what it was rated when I first did it in 1980) it is a nice little adventure.

By andy peter tretiakoff
From: Truckee,Ca
Apr 19, 2006

Squeezing The Lemmon has it right,three star's all the way!

By Joe Lee
From: Nogales, Arizona
Feb 4, 2007

I am not sure what the appropriate line is for the first pitch. After you pass the blocky section, do you continue up the arete or do you traverse right and go up a steep face or into the chimney??? Good climb. Not great though. Nice views.

By Braxton Norwood
From: Tucson
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.7

I think the view from the end of P1 is great/picturesque, but I don't see how it's a 4 STAR CLASSIC AAAA+++!!!1!!1. P2 is really fun, but too damn short! I used a .25 cam to protect the traverse, which is on pretty easy territory if I remember correctly. If this route is PG13, then the Standard Route @ Chimney rock is, too (neither are PG13, IMO).

By Jimbo
Mar 29, 2007

Braxton, you are a hard man to please. Slippery is most definitely a 3 star route for Mt. Lemmon.
Is it as good as Mr. Clean on Devils Tower, or The Grand Wall in Squamish, or the Salathe on El Cap, no. But it's a 3 star route for the area.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Dec 27, 2007

On the first pitch, past the blocks, the line is up the arete on the far left, then a short step-across traverse and then up to the far left end of the belay ledge, then walk across belay ledge to the chains on the far right. There's a fairly large knob that would probably catch the rope and prevent a pendulum if the second fell, but it's easy ground anyway.

The direct start doesn't feel like 5.7+ anymore, there's some polished rock and balancy moves down there. The bypass start from the left side comes in just above the blocky stuff and below the arete and there's a tree to set a belay.

By Rhett Burroughs
From: Valdosta, GA
Feb 8, 2008

It is a great climb and I think the first one I did out west! A great intro!

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.8

do the 2nd pitch in the dark for a unique experience. the climbing isn't hard and it's near impossible to get off route, but the blackness around you creates a sense of mystery (what are you climbing into?) while the expanse of tucson glows far below you. classic!

i'd like to add to christian's comment though; there's a single move at the bottom that i believe could go as hard as 5.9 (very tenuous--my second fell here), though the rest of the climb is 5.7 at the hardest.