This Lemmon classic is a must-do for tradsters solid in the grade. Fun, but sustained and not entirely casual. Climb broken, blocky dihedrals up to large corner. Layback a beautiful flake up and right for about 12 ft. Exit this flake and finish straight up face to chains. Either lower or walk off.
Protection
Bring a 60m rope and Pro to 2.5". Chain anchors on top. Bring biners and webbing for extension and toproping.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 30, 2004 rating: 5.8
I seem to remember one of the blocks down low was flexing quite a bit the last time I climbed this one. That was probably back in '01 or '02.
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Feb 28, 2006 rating: 5.8
Great climb! Don't think I'd recommend it as a first lead, though, which Squeezing the Lemmon does as well. I found it a bit tricky to protect and it was my 110th lead (yes, I keep track, I'm a dork).
This is a great climb to take a beginner to and throw them on TR. My buddy who is new to climbing outdoors really enjoyed it.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jun 16, 2006 rating: 5.8+
Also wouldn't recommend this for an onsight lead attempt by a beginning trad leader..The climb is steeper than it looks from the bottom, there's some balancy stances and committing moves, and knowing when to sling long is important.
There's bomber pro to be had, but a beginner could easily end up using some of the flaring and/or irregular stuff that might hold a good yank but not a lead fall ( i.e. a placement where you can see two of the cams are well-set but the other two are hard to see and could be tipped out). With all the blocky, ledgy stuff, any fall that pulls a piece is guaranteed to be ugly.
I placed 9 cams + one nut on this. There's probably more passive pro to be had, but I would recommend against going up with just a handful of cams, which might be just the case for a beginner starting his rack.
the large flake right at the start of this route is loose. pop a cam in and watch it wiggle. it's likely to fall right where you want to put your rope, so be aware. fun climbing on less than solid rock, i doubt a first time leader would be comfy with the gear
By Kyle Andringa From: Sahuarita, AZ May 9, 2008 rating: 5.8-
I toproped this since I don't have any trad gear. I would say the majority of the route is a 5.7 with 5.8 at the right-sloping crack midway up. That crack is PERFECT. It was a nice break from some of the razor edge rock on the rest of North Fin.
I have lead this climb a couple of times over the last 5 years. There is a lot of blocks that flexed when I pulled on them this time around. I don't know if it is all the traffic it has seen over the years but I don't think it is to safe anymore, especially for the belayer.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Nov 8, 2009 rating: 5.8+
i don't understand why this climb is so popular. the gear isn't great and the climbing is blocky and ledgy and like people have said, some of the flakes are flexing. i can understand 3 stars (i guess), but 4? is this a collective effort by the tucson climbing community to keep out-of-towners away and the crowds small? i can see it now; people from boulder getting on this climb and saying, "seriously? this is a tucson classic? all the non-classics must suck."
if the plan is to keep the crowds away i'm all for that, i just never got the memo is all.
Climbed it three times last weekend and didn't have a flexing hold anywhere that I could tell. The pro if placed properly is bomber and pretty much every where you need it. Not a four star route but a really good one for the grade.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Nov 13, 2009 rating: 5.8+
three stars i can see. four just seems like the starbucks effect; it's popular because it's popular.
By Hendrixson From: Tucson, AZ 1 day ago rating: 5.7
I climbed it for the first time on gear today and thought it was excellent. Fun mild climbing with plenty of bomber placements. I didn't feel any flexing holds. In my opinion it is better than "Slippery When Wet".